Comme la plupart des secteurs d’activité, l’industrie cosmétique a été lourdement touchée par le coronavirus. Entre confinement, port du masque au quotidien et gestes barrières, quel est l’état du marché français et quel a été l’impact de la Covid-19 sur l’industrie cosmétique ?
CONFINEMENT ET ROUTINE BEAUTE SONT-ILS COMPATIBLES ?
Pendant près de 3 mois, la vie des français a été ralentie, avec une population confinée et des commerces, pour la plupart, fermés. Le télétravail, qui était auparavant une exception, est devenu la règle pour beaucoup d’entre nous. Sorties limitées au strict minimum, port du masque obligatoire, peur du virus … Tout cela a participé à changer nos habitudes vis-à-vis des cosmétiques.
Une routine beauté transformée
« Pourquoi s’apprêter si l’on reste à la maison ? » : cette question, nous sommes nombreux à nous l’être posée. Et la réponse a souvent été une remise en question totale de notre routine beauté.
Le maquillage a été fortement touché avec une nette baisse du chiffre d’affaires sur le premier semestre 2020 : moins 25% par rapport à 2019. Les parfums et les produits liés au rasage ont également accusé le coup, avec par exemple, une baisse de 24% des ventes de rasoirs et de lames pendant le confinement.
A l’inverse, les produits de soin ont vu leurs ventes bondir : les ventes de soin du corps ont augmenté de 225% en avril. Une tendance qui s’explique notamment par une recherche de bien-être et de plaisir pendant cette période de stress.
Ainsi, le confinement a totalement modifié l’utilisation des produits cosmétiques, aussi bien chez les femmes que chez les hommes.
De nouvelles habitudes de consommation
Mais le coronavirus n’a pas simplement modifié notre routine beauté : il a également bousculé notre façon d’acheter les cosmétiques. Les boutiques étant fermées, les consommateurs ont dû trouver une alternative pour se fournir. Et une solution s’est très vite imposée : l’achat en ligne.
Même si le e-commerce est déjà en vogue depuis quelques années, il n’est pas le canal d’achat le plus utilisé pour les achats de cosmétiques. De nombreuses personnes étaient encore peu à l’aise avec le fait d’acheter leurs produits de beauté et de soin sur internet. La Covid-19 et le confinement qu’il a engendré ont fait évoluer les comportements d’achat vers plus de digital.
Selon le Groupe NPD, les achats e-commerce dans le secteur des cosmétiques ont augmenté de 73% au mois d’avril par rapport à l’année précédente. Certaines marques ont vu l’utilisation de leurs sites e-commerce exploser. C’est notamment le cas de L’Oréal, dont les ventes par internet ont augmenté de plus de 52% par rapport à 2019, et ont représenté 20% des ventes totales.
DES CHANGEMENTS QUI CONTINUENT A IMPACTER NOTRE CONSOMMATION DE COSMETIQUES
Le confinement est terminé mais le coronavirus est toujours présent. Le port du masque reste de mise et le télétravail a encore de beaux jours devant lui. Alors notre relation aux cosmétiques a-t-elle évolué depuis la sortie du confinement ? La réponse est : pas vraiment. Le chiffre d’affaire du secteur cosmétique a diminué de 10%, mais tous les produits ne sont pas impactés de la même manière.
Les ventes de maquillage en chute libre
Dans l’ensemble, les produits de beauté sont délaissés par les consommateurs et le maquillage n’est pas une exception. Selon une étude Ifop, 45% des femmes de moins de 65 ans ne se maquillent plus ou très occasionnellement contre 36% en 2017. Cet abandon progressif des produits de beauté trouve plusieurs explications, dont la diminution des interactions sociales et le port du masque. Mais « l’effet masque » n’impacte pas les produits de maquillage de la même façon.
Par exemple, le rouge à lèvres connait notamment une période noire avec une baisse drastique de ses ventes, fortement liée au port du masque. Au contraire, d’autres produits, comme le maquillage pour les yeux, tirent leur épingle du jeu. Concrètement, une augmentation des ventes de maquillage pour les yeux de 116% a été observée en avril, avec un pic à 150% pour les ventes de mascara.
Les tendances du « no make-up » et du « slow make-up » participent aussi à cette diminution des ventes. Déjà en vogue avant l’arrivée du coronavirus, cette approche du maquillage a pris de l’importance pendant le confinement, et les conditions sanitaires actuelles continuent de lui être bénéfiques.
Les gammes de soins et les produits d’hygiène ont la cote
Contrairement aux produits de maquillage, les soins et produits d’hygiène ont permis d’endiguer la baisse du chiffre d’affaires de l’industrie cosmétique, avec un doublement des ventes au premier semestre. La sortie du confinement n’aura pas fait baisser la forte demande pour ces produits : soins du corps, du visage et des cheveux continuent de se vendre dans des proportions plus importantes que les années précédentes.
Les crèmes pour les mains et les soins pour le visage sont particulièrement prisés. L’utilisation répétée de gels hydroalcooliques et de savons, et le port du masque au quotidien modifient les besoins des consommateurs qui essaient de trouver des produits à intégrer à leur nouvelle routine.
Le bien-être reste donc une des préoccupations majeures des français pendant cette crise sanitaire et les soins semblent être une bonne manière de réduire le stress pour nombre d’entre-nous.
Des valeurs responsables et éthiques de plus en plus importantes
Le confinement a aussi été l’occasion de réfléchir à notre façon de consommer et à l’importance de nos choix quand nous faisons des achats. Aujourd’hui plus que jamais, les valeurs portées par les marques sont au centre des préoccupations des consommateurs. Dans l’industrie cosmétique, cela se traduit par des attentes vis-à-vis des ingrédients utilisés, de l’impact environnemental des produits et de leurs emballages, mais aussi par une appétence de plus en plus forte pour les produits bios et naturels.
En cette période particulière, protéger sa santé en apportant plus de naturalité dans sa routine beauté est la volonté de nombreuses personnes. Ici encore, la Covid-19 a participé à accélérer des tendances qui existaient déjà : la « clean-beauty » (ou « green-beauty ») et la « patriot-beauty ». Les cosmétiques made in France et ayant un impact environnemental moindre ont donc la cote auprès des consommateurs.
Chez certaines personnes, cette volonté de consommer des cosmétiques plus écologiques est allée encore plus loin. Les « Do It Yourself » pour le maquillage et les produits de soin se sont multipliés pendant le confinement et de nombreux français se sont prêtés au jeu. Cette tendance prouve encore une fois l’importance que prennent peu à peu la composition des produits et l’impact environnemental dans le processus de choix des consommateurs.
Un retour à la normale dans les points de vente ?
Depuis la mi-mai, les boutiques de cosmétiques ont rouvert leurs portes. Mais entre sens de circulation, distanciation sociale, nombre de clients limité dans le magasin engendrant des files d’attente monstres, port du masque, et désinfection régulière des mains et outils de travail, il est difficile de parler d’un retour à la normale. Les testeurs ont dû être supprimés pour de nombreux produits et certaines prestations, comme le maquillage en magasin, ont également été suspendues. Ainsi, l’expérience client n’est plus la même et les points de vente peinent à relancer leur activité.
COMMENT L’INDUSTRIE COSMETIQUE PEUT REAGIR AUX TRANSFORMATIONS LIEES A LA COVID-19 ?
Face à un marché transformé, l’industrie cosmétique se doit de réagir et d’effectuer des changements en profondeur pour contrer les effets négatifs du coronavirus sur son activité. A ce jour, plusieurs possibilités sont envisageables pour tenter de remonter la pente.
Innover pour répondre aux besoins des consommateurs
L’innovation et le développement de nouveaux produits est une des solutions incontournables pour l’industrie cosmétique. En effet, la crise du coronavirus a fait naître de nouveaux besoins chez les consommateurs. Il est donc essentiel de saisir cette opportunité et de réfléchir à des produits adaptés à la situation sanitaire actuelle. On peut par exemple penser à de nouvelles routines de soin pour la peau spécialement créées pour le port du masque. Du côté du maquillage, des produits longue durée, waterproof ou encore sans transfert auront sûrement plus de succès que les produits classiques.
L’hygiène étant au cœur des préoccupations, il est aussi intéressant pour les marques cosmétiques de se pencher sur le développement de produits annexes à ceux qu’ils ont l’habitude de proposer. De nombreuses marques de luxe, comme Dior ou Guerlain, ont prouvé leur capacité à adapter rapidement leurs chaînes de production pour produire du gel hydroalcoolique. Alors pourquoi ne pas en tirer profit et continuer sur cette voie ?
Enfin, pour séduire et répondre aux attentes de la population, les marques vont devoir se renouveler et repenser leurs produits de manière plus propre et plus éthique. Très vite, la qualité et la naturalité vont primer.
Améliorer l’expérience client en ligne
L’achat en ligne est une solution privilégiée par de nombreux clients : l’enjeu va donc être d’améliorer l’expérience client sur ce canal de manière à le rendre encore plus attractif. Les tchats en ligne pour obtenir des conseils, mais aussi les applications permettant d’essayer virtuellement certains produits de maquillage, comme celle de Séphora, vont donc se démocratiser. L’utilisation de la réalité augmentée et de l’intelligence artificielle est également à explorer.
Profiter des opportunités offertes par le coronavirus pour se renouveler en boutique
Toutefois, les magasins ne vont pas disparaitre totalement au profit du e-commerce. En effet, même si des solutions existent pour tester le maquillage directement en ligne, le test de parfums ou de soins reste compliqué lorsque l’on n’est pas sur place. De plus, les achats en ligne restent généralement des renouvellements et la proportion d’achat digitaux de nouveaux produits sans passage en magasin reste faible. Les boutiques ont donc encore un bel avenir devant elles.
Et en y réfléchissant bien, les contraintes liées à la Covid-19 représentent peut-être des opportunités. Par exemple, les sens de circulation imposés peuvent être utilisés pour amener les clients dans les zones froides des points de vente. La restriction du nombre de clients en boutique peut permettre d’avoir une relation plus personnalisée et de proposer de nouveaux services comme la prise de rendez-vous avec un conseiller.
La Covid-19 a eu un impact non négligeable sur l’industrie cosmétique. Le virus a notamment participé à accélérer l’adoption de tendances qui existaient déjà, comme le « no make-up », le « green make-up » ou l’attention portée aux valeurs de la marque.
Malgré une baisse globale des ventes, certains produits permettent au secteur de sortir la tête de l’eau en minimisant la perte de chiffre d’affaires. En France, le retour à la normale est prévu pour 2022. Alors d’ici-là, les marques de cosmétique vont devoir innover et s’adapter, tant au niveau de leurs produits que de leurs circuits de distribution, pour répondre aux nouvelles attentes des consommateurs.
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