En 2016, Macklemore & Ryan Lewis faisaient l’apologie des friperies dans leur tube « Thrift Shop » et déclaraient : « J’aurais probablement dû laver ces fringues, elles sentent les feuilles de R.Kelly. Mais merde, ça m’a coûté 99 cents ! ».
Quatre ans plus tard, il est révolu le temps où friperie rimait avec petite boutique obscure, bacs de vêtement fouillis et odeurs douteuses ! Aujourd’hui, la mode vintage se modernise et se veut sexy pour séduire les nouveaux consommateurs de la génération Z.
Boutiques lumineuses et fonctionnelles, site internet, communication sur les réseaux sociaux… Quels sont les moyens mis en place par l’industrie de la mode vintage pour se moderniser ?
Le marché de la friperie se porte comme un charme
Le marché du vêtement d’occasion ne s’est jamais aussi bien porté et la tendance semble être structurelle. L’engouement pour la fast fashion de ces dernières années ralentit et les consommateurs se tournent de plus en plus vers la slow fashion.
Selon l’étude menée par thredUP en 2020, les ventes d’articles de seconde main devraient dépasser celles du neuf d’ici 2024 et représenter ainsi 64 milliards de dollars.
En 2029 le marché des vêtements d’occasion pèsera deux fois plus que celui des géants de l’habillement. Le mouvement est déjà en marche puisqu’en 2019, la revente de vêtements a accru de 49% contre seulement 2% pour le retail.
Les français ne dérogent pas à la règle puisque 38,7% d’entre nous affirment avoir acheté un vêtement d’occasion en 2019, sur un marché évalué à un milliard d’euros par l’Institut français de la mode (IFM).
Après des décennies à suivre un système de surconsommation où les enseignes de la fast fashion régnaient en main de maître les consommateurs se rendent compte des dégâts environnementaux et sociétaux causés par celles-ci.
La génération Z et les millennials ambassadeurs du phénomène de la friperie
40% des moins de 24 ans ont consommé du vintage en 2019 contre 26% en 2016 (source : étude thredUP). Il s’agit de la catégorie d’âge qui consomme le plus de seconde main.
Les femmes l’apprécient tout particulièrement. 70% d’entre elles disaient avoir ou vouloir acheter de la mode vintage en 2019 (source : étude thredUP).
Les acheteurs sont motivés par un budget plus serré que leurs aînés et par le souhait d’améliorer leur impact environnemental. Ils sont fiers car ils ont l’impression de faire une bonne action en réduisant les déchets de la « fashion industry ».
Face à la proposition par le marché du neuf d’une mode uniforme, la jeunesse voit en la fripe le moyen d’affirmer son identité et ses valeurs. Les friperies proposent des pièces uniques pour des individus en recherche de singularité.
Où autre trouver cette fameuse authentique longue veste en cuir noir que votre mère portait à votre âge, revenue à la mode en 2020 ?!
Chiner soi-même sa tenue lui donne un réel sens et créé une notion de préciosité.
Toujours selon l’étude de thredUP, la croissance de la vente en ligne de vêtements d’occasion est prévue à 69% entre 2019 et 2021. Les nouvelles technologies ont rendu les friperies d’autrefois plus accessibles et plus esthétiques.
Le covid-19 a accéléré le désir de changer de modes de consommation
En impactant très fortement l’industrie de la mode et de la beauté, la pandémie et notamment le confinement ont entraîné des prises de conscience et des changements de consommation chez beaucoup d’entre nous.
Faute d’accès aux boutiques, nous nous sommes retranchés sur les sites de e-commerce. En effet, les marketplaces, déjà puissantes ont vu leurs ventes exploser. Les consommateurs ont vu le shopping en ligne comme un moyen de divertissement durant le confinement.
La mode d’occasion est elle aussi sortie gagnante de la crise planétaire.
L’effondrement de l’économie pousse les personnes à se tourner vers les plateformes de revente et d’achat de vêtements d’occasion telles que Vinted pour faire du cash.
4 personnes sur 5 affirment en effet consommer ou vouloir consommer du seconde main lorsque leur budget est serré.
50% des personnes affirment trier plus régulièrement leurs placards depuis le confinement selon thredUP.
Il semblerait que les consommateurs soient enclins à adopter des changements de consommation sur le long terme suite à la pandémie. Ils sont désormais à la recherche de valeur et de praticité lorsqu’ils achètent des vêtements.
La mode d’occasion adoptée par les stars
Ces dernières années les célébrités veulent faire passer un message : le vintage c’est cool !
Kate Middleton est connue pour remettre ses tenues plusieurs fois en public. Quant à Meghan Markle, elle a révélé le nom de sa friperie préférée au Royaume-Uni. En septembre 2019, Gwyneth Paltrow a créé le buzz en s’affichant dans une robe vintage Valentino à la cérémonie des Emmy awards. Même la famille Kardashian s’est emparée de la tendance et a créé son propre site de vente de vêtements d’occasion de luxe en octobre 2019.
En France, la chanteuse Clara Luciani fait régulièrement la publicité de sa friperie préférée Blow Up Vintage et a même participé à une série de photos modes pour le blog de la fripe.
Vous l’avez compris, le contexte actuel déroule le tapis rouge à l’industrie du vintage et ouvre l’ère de la friperie moderne !
La fripe c’est « cheap » ET chic
Face au succès de l’habillement d’occasion les enseignes de la fast-fashion contre-attaquent et investissent dans des sociétés de seconde main, créent des étalages de vêtements vintage ou font des partenariats avec des plateformes spécialisées. Le secteur attire plus d’investisseurs que jamais auparavant.
L’objectif est clair : redorer leur image pour ne pas perdre leur cible des 18 – 37 ans.
Loin de se laisser dépasser par le succès et par la concurrence, les friperies en ligne émergent et rivalisent avec les sites e-commerce de vêtements neufs.
Fini les friperies d’autrefois, le vintage se met à la mode capitaliste !
En créant des sites de vente en ligne modernes, ergonomiques et pratiques les créateurs de fripes ont compris comment attirer leur cible. L’objectif est également de concurrencer Vinted, qui prend beaucoup de place dans l’industrie du seconde main.
Plus besoin de se lever à 8h un dimanche pour partir à la quête de la perle rare, elle se trouve désormais à portée de clics !
Si vous vous rendez sur une friperie en ligne, vous aurez l’impression d’être sur la plateforme e-commerce d’un grand retailer. Tout y est !
On peut créer son compte, se connecter, voir son panier… Les photos sont élaborées et des créations de looks sont postées pour aider le client à se projeter. Les catégories sont intuitives : par catégories d’articles, par marques, par nouveautés, par promos, par sexe, etc.
Les créateurs de friperies en ligne se positionnent comme experts de la mode en postant des articles spécialisés sur leurs blogs et en envoyant régulièrement des newsletters à leurs abonnés. Ils misent sur une stratégie de contenu efficace pour attirer les internautes, les transformer en client et les fidéliser.
Des opérations promotionnelles sont régulièrement mises en place pour pousser les visiteurs à l’achat.
Inspirés par la fast fashion, les friperies proposent à leurs clients des arrivages hebdomadaires, de quoi convaincre les accros au shopping. Quant à la livraison, pas d’inquiétude, les produits sont livrés à domicile ou en points relais. Elle peut même être offerte à partir d’un certain montant d’achat.
Mais ce n’est pas tout ! Les boutiques vintage d’aujourd’hui possèdent de vraies signatures de marques et des stratégies de branding dignes de ce nom.
Elles affichent un positionnement clair, comme par exemple la mode américaine des années 1980/1990 ou bien des looks féminins, chics et rétro… Tous les styles sont représentés.
Au travers de la création d’un logo, d’une charte graphique, de fiches produits, un véritable storytelling est raconté au visiteur autour des vêtements proposés.
Le marché de la mode d’occasion ne serait certainement pas où il en est aujourd’hui sans l’aide des réseaux sociaux qui ont largement participé à sa popularisation. Comme toute marque qui se respecte, les friperies ont aujourd’hui leurs propres comptes Instagram et Facebook. On y retrouve des photos des articles à vendre, des concours, des stories pour communiquer directement avec leurs clients… Certaines d’entre elles fédèrent de grandes communautés d’abonnés.
L’industrie de la mode toute entière a été révolutionnée par l’apparition des influenceurs qui sont largement sollicités par les marques. En communiquant directement avec leurs abonnés, les créateurs de friperies deviennent eux-mêmes influenceurs, construisant ainsi une véritable relation entre les abonnés et la marque.
L’événementiel fait également partie prenante de la stratégie marketing des friperies. De nombreux salons du vintage sont organisés régulièrement partout dans le monde. Pour attirer les plus jeunes, des bars éphémères et musique live accompagnent les stands de vêtements et accessoires. L’art de faire du shopping un véritable divertissement.
L’un des salons les plus connus en France est le « Marché de la mode vintage » à Lyon qui a eu lieu le 5 et 6 décembre 2020.
Nous pourrions croire qu’avec la naissance des friperies en ligne les friperies physiques se mettraient à disparaître… Que nenni ! Le consommateur n’est pas prêt à dire au revoir aux sorties brocantes. C’est dans les magasins que réside tout le charme des friperies. Il est cependant indispensable qu’elles se modernisent en investissant dans de grands espaces où tous les articles sont visibles et facilement accessibles. L’ADN de la marque doit se ressentir dans les lieux à l’aide d’outils de marketing du point de vente.
Alors que le marketing moderne aurait pu tuer la vente de vêtements d’occasion, l’industrie a su se réinventer et prendre le virage internet. L’avenir s’annonce dorénavant radieux et plein de promesses pour le secteur à condition qu’il continue de nous surprendre par ses innovations. L’essor de l’industrie de la seconde main constitue peut-être les prémices d’un monde où l’économie sociale et solidaire est reine… On a bien le droit de rêver non ?
Liste non exhaustive de comptes Instagram de friperie à suivre à tout prix pour être sapé comme jamais :
@rosepoudrevintage
@melancolia.vintage
@odael_friperie
@amourette.shop
@mademoisellepimp
@habitsdudimanche
@theparisianvintage
@cosy_hestia
@plagepaloma
@la_bonne_pioche
@saturnefripe
@reyaume_
@phenomenerare
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