La retouche numérique de photos est désormais une étape quasi-obligatoire dans la publicité actuelle. Si de nombreuses campagnes sont construites grâce à cela, de plus en plus de marques prennent la parole et s’engagent à limiter, voire à bannir la retouche photo de leur communication.
Se construire sur une image faussée
Si l’exposition à des images retouchées devient la norme, les jeunes et moins jeunes se construisent autour de standards inaccessibles. Il devient alors d’autant plus difficile d’apprécier son corps tel qu’il est dans un monde placardé de corps déformés par Photoshop – pour ne citer que le plus connu. Et cette perte de repères peut entrainer de graves problèmes de santé : troubles du comportement alimentaires en première ligne, pour ceux qui posent comme pour ceux qui regardent. Il y a un double enjeu donc : la santé des mannequins et celle du public exposé à ces images. Et ces troubles ne sont pas réservés à la gent féminine, le public masculin y est confronté lui aussi.
Quand la retouche photo devient publicité mensongère
La retouche photo, quand elle est utilisée à outrance, propose une version déformée de la réalité. Et cela peut être considéré comme de la publicité mensongère. La Cour d’appel de Paris a été saisie pour un cas où la retouche photo avait été utilisée pour vanter les mérites d’un vêtement amincissant.
Pourtant, de nombreux secteurs passent par la retouche numérique dans leur publicité : alimentaire pour colorer les plats, ou décoratif pour améliorer la couleur d’un canapé.
A l’inverse, se pose donc la question : à quoi ressemblerait la publicité sans plus aucune retouche ? La retouche permet-elle une part de rêve essentielle à la publicité ?
Décret Photoshop : la mention « photographie retouchée » obligatoire
Depuis le 1er octobre 2017, le ministre de la santé impose la mention « photographie retouchée » sur les photos concernées, sanctions financières à l’appui. Attention cependant à ce « décret Photoshop » : il existe une différence au niveau des supports. Si l’affichage, la publicité en ligne et les communications de presses sont concernés, la télévision, elle, ne subit pas la même obligation. Les spots TV ne sont pas touchés par la législation et peuvent encore se dispenser de le préciser.
Une autre limite à cette loi : aucune évaluation ou suivi n’ont été prévus par le Ministère de la Santé qui l’a mise en place. C’est donc directement au mannequin ou à un tiers de porter plainte auprès de l’ARPP, l’organisme professionnel qui régule la publicité. Ce procédé est-il suffisamment fort pour faire respecter la règle ?
Des marques qui prennent le parti d’arrêter
Dans une époque où l’heure est à la transparence et à la vérité auprès des consommateurs, certaines marques prennent la parole pour dénoncer les effets de la retouche photo abusive dans la publicité.
Dès 2004, Dove diffuse sa célèbre campagne contre ces dérives, en un mois elle sera vue plus de 3 millions de fois sur Youtube. Ce spot sera récompensé par le Festival international de la publicité à Cannes – Lion d’or. Dans une démarche globale, Dove va plus loin encore avec la création du logo « Jamais de retouche » ou le projet Dove pour l’estime de soi.
Dans le domaine du mannequinant, une charte dictée par Kering et LVMH sur le bien-être des mannequins accompagne ces mesures. Signée notamment par Elle et Version Femina, les signataires de la charte s’engage à respecter différentes mesures : ne pas faire appel à des mannequins en dessous d’une taille 34, demander leur accord préalable avant le changement d’apparence ou la présence d’un certificat médical attestant de leur bonne santé par exemple.
Le célèbre site de vêtement en ligne Asos adopte aussi un positionnement affirmé :
« Nous nous engageons à ne pas supprimer tout ce qui fait partie de quelqu’un comme les vergetures, les cicatrices ou les grains de beauté. Nous ne remodelons jamais le corps des gens. » Cela participe à augmenter le capital sympathie des consommateurs envers la marque qui saluent l’effort sur les réseaux sociaux.
So impressed with @Asos for not airbrushing the models stretchmarks👏🏼👏🏼 She looks amazing! pic.twitter.com/OKEZinpjKe
— Amy🦄 (@amyrowlandsx) June 28, 2017
Autre exemple avec le leader de la communication visuelle Getty Images iStock qui s’est engagé à retirer de sa banque d’images les photos de personnes dont la morphologie a été modifiée.
La marque française d’habillement Damart décide de lancer une campagne en faveur du naturel « Pour que mon image soit conforme à ma vie, à mon histoire. Stop aux diktats de la perfection ! La femme est belle au naturel » peut-on lire sur le site de la marque
Ces marques ne sont pas les seules à s’engager et un mouvement global se met en route. Les retouches photos ne sont pas à bannir de la publicité mais elles doivent être maitrisées et raisonnées. Ainsi, les actions mises en place par entreprise et gouvernement participent à une évolution des mentalités.
Une touche d’espoir vers une communication plus transparente et éthique ?
Pour plus d’articles sur le thème Mode & Beauté : rdv ici !
Emmanuelle Mandon
Excellente analyse, si cela pouvait être transposable dans d’autres domaines…Bravo
J’aime la personne nature et qui osera se montrer sans retouches , mais malheureusement notre monde moderne impose une ligne une forme . Si cet article peut changer les esprits et permettre à chacun d’être soi même
Article très intéressant!Merci:)
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