Longtemps associée aux sportifs, la basket s’est aujourd’hui démocratisée. De l’adolescent fashionista à la mère de famille en passant par la première dame Brigitte Macron que l’on a récemment vue en sneakers Louis Vuitton, la basket est aujourd’hui devenue une pièce basique à avoir dans sa garde robe. En 2018, la basket représentait 47% du marché des chaussures et a généré plus de 4 milliards d’euros de chiffre d’affaires en France selon la Fédération Française de la Chaussure (FFC). Dans ce secteur, les sneakers en séries limitées ont le vent en poupe.
Les collaborations : quand le marketing de la rareté fait mouche
Nous savons que les marchés sont régis par la loi de l’offre et de la demande. Sur le marché des sneakers en séries limitées, l’offre est réduite face à une demande en perpétuelle croissance. Alors, pourquoi les marquent adoptent-elles cette stratégie ?
La collaboration est un moyen pour une marque de profiter de la notoriété du partenaire et de gagner de nouveaux clients. Bien étudié, ce partenariat peut dépoussiérer l’image de la marque et montrer qu’elle est dans l’air du temps en proposant des produits nouveaux et tendances.
Les sneakers en séries limitées permettent aux marques de créer un véritable engouement autour des sorties. Il existe une vraie attente chez les consommateurs, avec de nombreux sites spécialisés qui communiquent autour de ces lancements. La rareté donne donc plus de valeur à la paire de chaussures et permet de créer de véritables communautés. Ainsi, les heureux propriétaires de paires rares sont fiers de porter ces modèles et l’affichent sur les réseaux sociaux.
Des exemples qui marchent
Kanye West (YEEZY) x Adidas
Après 6 ans de travail avec Nike et un désaccord financier, c’est en 2013 que le rappeur américain annonce la fin de cette collaboration à succès. La même année, Adidas en profite et signe un contrat avec Kanye West. Le fruit de cette collaboration voit le jour en Février 2015 avec la sortie de la première Yeezy Boost 750 en quantité limitée, vendue en quelques minutes. Avant la sortie, la paire avait été portée par de nombreuses célébrités parmi lesquelles Kanye West lui-même et le clan Kardashian dont sa femme Kim (153 millions d’abonnés sur Instagram) fait partie, suscitant ainsi un véritable engouement. Depuis, plus d’une trentaine de modèles sont sortis, la Yeezy Boost 350 étant la plus populaire, notamment auprès des célébrités.
Liam Payne, Hailey Baldwin, Calvin Harris, Chloe Grace Moretz et Justin Bieber arborant la Yeezy Boost 350.
Prix retail : 200 euros.
Prix resell : entre 300 et plus de 2500 euros.
Chanel x Pharrell Williams x Adidas
En Novembre 2017, la basket Chanel x Pharrell Williams x Adidas est lancée en exclusivité dans le concept store parisien Colette avant sa fermeture définitive le mois suivant. C’était la première fois que la maison Chanel apposait son nom sur le produit d’une autre marque. En quantité ultra limitée (500 exemplaires), il fallait faire partie des chanceux tirés au sort parmi plus de 120 000 inscrits pour pouvoir l’acheter.
Prix retail : 1000 euros.
Prix resell : entre 7000 et plus de 20000 euros.
Nike (Air Jordan) x Dior
Pour fêter le 35ème anniversaire de la Air Jordan et le lancement de la collection Dior Homme aux États-Unis, les deux marques se sont associées pour sortir la Air Jordan 1 Dior en avril 2020. Vendue dans une sélection de boutiques Dior à travers le monde, seulement 4700 paires seront disponibles aux alentours de 2000 euros. Les prix de revente de cette paire avant même sa sortie ont créé un véritable buzz sur les réseaux sociaux.
Plusieurs pré-commandes déjà conclues entre revendeurs et acheteurs sur le site StockX atteignant jusqu’à 11800€.
Le resell, un business plus que juteux
Comme vu précédemment, la demande dépasse largement l’offre lors de ces lancements. De nouveaux acteurs ont donc fait leur apparition sur le marché. Il existe de nombreuses boutiques, physiques ou digitales, spécialisées auprès desquelles les particuliers peuvent vendre et/ou acheter des paires. La plus connue étant la boutique américaine StockX.com qui, moyennant une commission, fait l’intermédiaire entre acheteurs et vendeurs, contrôle l’authenticité des baskets et veille à ce qu’elles soient neuves. Ce site agit comme une place de marché où les vendeurs fixent leur prix et les acheteurs peuvent directement acheter ou soumettre une offre. Le site propose également une courbe de valeur en fonction de l’offre et de la demande.
Exemple : Après son lancement sur le site Nike au prix de 250 euros, la Jordan 6 Retro Travis Scott se revendait jusqu’à 2244 euros en septembre et vaut aujourd’hui environ 550 euros.
Comme vous l’avez compris, il est possible de gagner beaucoup d’argent en achetant les paires à la sortie et en les revendant ensuite. Pour nous aider à mieux comprendre ce marché parallèle, j’ai interrogé un revendeur parisien qui a accepté de répondre à quelques questions.
Pourquoi t’es-tu lancé dans ce business ?
“Depuis tout petit j’aime bien avoir de belles baskets et je n’en avais pas toujours. Donc, au début je voulais juste avoir des baskets de plus en plus belles et au fur et à mesure j’ai compris qu’il y avait des baskets qui étaient limitées. Je m’y suis donc intéressé sur internet et j’ai compris qu’il y avait une vraie demande. Comme j’habite sur Paris, je savais qu’il y avait beaucoup de magasins qui en revendaient donc je me suis dit “pourquoi pas moi”.”
Comment savoir si une paire se revendra bien ?
“La hype a un peu changé ces derniers temps. Quand j’ai commencé début 2016, on observait pas mal les commentaires sur les réseaux sociaux et le niveau des stocks. Plus une paire va être limitée, mieux elle se revendra. S’il y a de trop gros stocks, même si les gens en parlent, il n’y aura pas de revente. Puis si personne ne parle d’une paire ou alors s’il y a trop de commentaires négatifs parce qu’elle est moche, c’est pareil. Le premier critère reste donc la quantité.”
Combien cela te rapporte-t-il ?
“Ça dépend un peu de ta chance, je n’ai jamais fait de statistiques mensuelles. La paire la plus chère que j’ai revendue, c’était des baskets à 1100 euros que j’avais acheté 200. Mais il y a des gens qui font beaucoup plus.”
Qui sont tes clients ?
“La plupart de mes clients sont masculins, jeunes et passionnés de mode. Il y a pas mal de clients étrangers, notamment des Asiatiques, qui recherchent beaucoup ces sneakers en séries limitées. Comme il y en a qui habitent à Paris ou qui ont des connaissances qui y habitent, ils en profitent pour acheter ces paires qu’ils n’ont pas pu avoir, soit pour les porter, soit pour les revendre.”
Reste à voir désormais comment les marques comptent-elles réagir et s’adapter face à l’émergence de ce marché parallèle de revente de sneakers en séries limitées en pleine croissance…
Sofia N.
Article très intéressant et bien rédigé! J’en ai appris beaucoup en quelques lignes. Merci pour cet article Sofia !
Super article merci pour ces informations claires et très intéressantes!
Ça donne des idées, merci 😊
Très intéressant !
Ça nous apprend pas mal de chose !
Article super intéressant ! Merci ☺️
Super article et bien rédigé ! On en apprend beaucoup ! Merci Sofia 😊
Excellent article !! Interview très intéressante. Je suis impressionnée.
Article très instructif et très bien écrit, merci !
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Au top
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