Le secteur de la mode est connu pour être très polluant. Conscients de l’importance de faire changer les choses, plusieurs acteurs de la fashion ont pris part au Fashion Pact en août 2019. Plus d’un an plus tard, qu’est-ce qui a changé ? Les efforts sont-ils payants ? Peut-on espérer une mode écologique dans les prochaines années ?
LE FASHION PACT, C’EST QUOI ?
2e industrie la plus polluante au monde, la mode est responsable de 20% des rejets d’eaux usées, 10% des émissions de carbone et de 22.5% des pesticides utilisés. Face à ce constat, Emmanuel Macron a chargé François-Henri Pinault, CEO de Kering, de mobiliser le secteur de la mode autour d’actions visant à réduire l’impact écologique de cette industrie.
Le 26 août 2019, le Fashion Pact est présenté lors du G7 à Biarritz. A cette date, 32 CEO du secteur de la mode s’étaient engagés, avec pour ambition d’utiliser la puissance de leur industrie pour construire un avenir durable. Parmi les entreprises signataires, on retrouve par exemple Auchan, Hermès, Chanel, Carrefour, Les Galeries Lafayette ou encore Ruyi (pour Sandro, Maje et Claudie Pierlot). Les acteurs proviennent de différentes parties de l’industrie et ont pour objectif de la faire évoluer, chacun à leur niveau.
QUELS-SONT LES OBJECTIFS DU FASHION PACT ?
Le pacte s’appuie sur 3 grands axes : le réchauffement climatique, la biodiversité, et les océans. Plusieurs actions sont envisagées.
L’endiguement du réchauffement climatique doit passer par la réduction des émissions de carbone (zéro émission d’ici 2050). Cette action va par exemple s’appuyer sur :
– L’utilisation d’énergies renouvelables, avec un objectif de 100% en 2030,
– L’utilisation de matières premières plus écologiques, avec un objectif d’au moins 25% en 2025.
La préservation de la biodiversité repose notamment sur la protection des espèces protégées et la lutte contre la déforestation. Pour cela, les signataires doivent notamment :
– Favoriser les approches régénératives de l’agriculture,
– Supprimer les élevages intensifs de leurs chaînes d’approvisionnement,
– Encourager le développement de matériaux et processus innovants, plus respectueux de la faune et la flore.
Enfin, la protection des océans est surtout basée sur la question du plastique avec des actions comme :
– La suppression des plastiques à usage unique, en BtoC et en BtoB, d’ici 2030,
– Eduquer les consommateurs sur l’entretien des vêtements pour éviter la pollution par les microplastiques dus aux lavages.
En tout, ce sont 16 actions qui ont été retenues pour rendre le secteur de la mode plus propre. Découvrez le détail des engagements du Fashion Pact
ETAT DES LIEUX EN 2020
Un peu plus d’un an après le lancement du Fashion Pact, les premiers résultats ont été partagés par la coalition.
De nouveaux signataires et un début de structure
Le nombre de signataires du Fashion Pact a doublé, avec plus de 60 entreprises, représentant 200 marques du monde entier. F-H. Pinault a donc réussi à mobiliser un tiers du secteur de la mode, ce qui devrait permettre d’avoir un véritable impact sur l’industrie dans son ensemble.
Au-delà du recrutement de nouveaux signataires, la coalition a développé un tableau de suivi avec des indicateurs permettant de mesurer efficacement l’impact des efforts fournis. La collaboration avec des experts du climat et de la biodiversité a également progressé pendant cette première année.
Des résultats plus ou moins importants
Selon le premier rapport annuel, les entreprises signataires ont déjà réduit leurs émissions de gaz à effet de serre (liées directement à l’activité de production, et à la consommation d’électricité et de chaleur) de 350 000 à 450 000 tonnes. Les efforts concernant les matières premières et les énergies renouvelables ont également progressé dans les entreprises membres.
Concernant la préservation de la biodiversité, les changements sont plus longs mais le rapport retient que pour plusieurs entreprises, il s’agit du tout premier engagement public en matière de biodiversité, étape essentielle pour atteindre les objectifs fixés.
La réduction du plastique pour protéger les océans progresse de manière inégale selon les acteurs et les composantes visées. Par exemple, alors que 60% des membres ont éliminé le plastique des sacs de courses, le problème des cintres et des sacs de transports n’a été résolu que par 15% d’entre eux.
Ainsi, après un an, le Fashion Pact semble déjà porter ses fruits, même si des progrès sont encore nécessaires pour observer une réelle amélioration de l’impact environnemental de l’industrie de la mode.
LE FASHION PACT PEUT-IL VRAIMENT RENDRE LA MODE ÉCOLOGIQUE ?
Malgré les premiers résultats présentés comme encourageants, le Fashion Pact ne semble pas convaincre tout le monde.
Greenwashing ou véritable engagement environnemental ?
Une des premières questions qui se pose sur le Fashion Pact concerne les raisons profondes de son élaboration. Dans une société où de plus en plus de consommateurs se soucient de l’environnement, les marques se voient obligées de modifier certains aspects de leur activité. Le Fashion Pact a-t-il seulement pour but de répondre à ces nouvelles attentes ou s’inscrit-il dans une réelle prise de conscience de l’industrie de la mode ? Chacun a son avis sur la question.
Des mesures peu contraignantes
Sans encadrement de la part de l’Etat, l’efficacité et l’engagement réels des entreprises est remis en question par de nombreuses ONG. Selon elles, les mesures proposées par la coalition sont peu contraignantes, car uniquement décidées par les acteurs de la mode à l’origine des problèmes environnementaux.
Et comment s’assurer que les objectifs promis seront bien tenus s’il n’existe pas de sanction gouvernementale ? Sur ce point, le groupe Kering répond que le consommateur est la meilleure police dans ce type de situation. La sanction ne sera pas législative mais réputationnelle : si la marque ne tient pas ses engagements, ses clients sauront la rappeler à l’ordre et la pousser à agir.
De plus, certains objectifs sont annoncés pour 2050, ou non pas de date buttoir du tout, un vrai non-sens pour les associations au vu de l’urgence écologique.
Des ONG exclues du projet
Plusieurs voix se sont également élevées pour déplorer l’absence d’organismes non-gouvernementaux lors de l’élaboration du projet. Plusieurs organisations s’accordent à dire que leur expertise aurait pu permettre de faire émerger d’autres actions, peut-être plus pertinentes. A ce sujet, la coalition répond que les ONG seront appelées à participer au projet, mais un peu plus tard, et chacune sur leur domaine de compétence.
Une solution de surface
Enfin, de nombreuses personnes reprochent aux Fashion Pact de ne pas agir sur le problème de fond : la société de consommation. Alors que les mesures présentées touchent le système de production, c’est notre manière de consommer qui devrait être au cœur du pacte. Quid de la fast fashion, de la relocalisation et de l’économie circulaire ? Beaucoup pensent que le Fashion Pact est un premier pas, mais qu’il ne sera pas suffisant pour changer l’industrie en profondeur.
Pourquoi s’habiller pollue la planète ? – Le Monde
Des associations comme Green Peace réclament des mesures plus fortes et encadrées, comme la réduction des volumes de production, la suppression des publicités pour les vêtements, ou encore l’encouragement d’initiatives autour de l’économie circulaire.
Ainsi, après un an d’existence, le Fashion Pact a encore du travail pour convaincre de son utilité. Les premiers efforts réalisés par les entreprises ont été salués par les acteurs du secteur, mais les doutes persistent quant à la réelle efficacité du projet. Alors le Fashion Pact rendra-t-il la mode écologique ? La question reste ouverte.
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