Et si certains des plus grands influenceurs de mode étaient en réalité des personnages fictifs ? Omniprésentes dans notre quotidien, les séries télé nous accompagnent dans notre construction identitaire au fil des années. On s’attache aux personnages, on rêve de leur ressembler, on idolâtre leur style… et on s’en inspire. Source d’influence à part entière, l’univers des séries devient alors un business lucratif pour les marques de mode.
Des générations Y et Z sous l’influence exacerbée des séries TV
Avec l’avènement des plateformes de streaming, le binge-watching (visionnage en rafale) des séries s’est immiscé dans le quotidien des nouvelles générations. Avant, pour trouver l’inspiration il y avait le cinéma et les musées, aujourd’hui il y a Netflix.
C’est parce qu’elles s’inscrivent dans la durée que les séries façonnent si bien les goûts du grand public. Saison après saison, le spectateur a le temps d’observer le quotidien des personnages et de développer une forme d’attachement et d’identification à ces derniers. Le vêtement étant souvent central dans l’expression de la personnalité des héros de fiction, il devient alors une source d’inspiration pour le spectateur.
Des serre-tête preppy de Blair Waldorf dans Gossip Girl aux chaussures Manolo Blahnik portées par Carrie Bradshaw dans Sex and the City, en passant par les costumes d’époque de Mad Men remis au goût du jour dans les années 2000 : les looks des personnages dans les séries ont toujours influencé les goûts.
Mais si l’influence de ces héros fictifs sur la mode ne date pas d’hier, la diversité dans leur représentation est plutôt nouvelle. En élargissant le panel de personnages intéressants et uniques, les spectateurs, notamment les millennials, peuvent davantage s’identifier à eux. Car souvent, on souhaite reproduire le look des héros qui nous ressemblent, le phénomène d’influence est alors exacerbé.
La mode dans les séries : un véritable vecteur d’expression identitaire
La mode a une importance capitale dans les séries TV car elle reflète un état d’esprit, un milieu social ou même une époque.
Dans la série Gossip Girl, Blair et Serena vivent dans l’Upper East Side, le quartier huppé de New York. Entre fêtes mondaines et virées shopping dans les plus luxueuses maisons de couture, elles mènent une vie de privilégiées. Même registre – mais sur la côte Ouest – dans 90210, où les personnages vivent dans le quartier chic de Beverly Hills à Los Angeles. En voulant copier leurs look, le public souhaite en quelque sorte appartenir au même milieu social, ou du moins en donner l’impression. Car le vêtement a valeur d’identité, il permet d’exprimer sa personnalité et d’affirmer son appartenance à un certain groupe social.
Dans un autre registre, on voit évoluer le personnage d’Eric Effoing dans Sex Education à travers la sape. Jeune queer noir, les vêtements sont pour lui un moyen de s’affirmer au fil des épisodes. De même pour Kat Hernandez dans Euphoria, qui explore sa personnalité et sa sexualité au travers d’un changement de look mi-BDSM, mi-punk. Très représentative des millennials, la mode est un terrain d’expression à part entière. Une manière de se chercher, de se trouver et d’exprimer qui l’on est vraiment.
Au-delà de leurs vêtements, les personnages de série incarnent des valeurs établies selon différents stéréotypes. Ils constituent des analogies de personnes que nous voudrions potentiellement être. Évidemment, il est souvent impossible d’atteindre ce but, mais en adoptant leur style vestimentaire, on s’en rapproche un peu.
Des shows qui s’adressent à des communautés ciblées
À la différence des chaînes de télé historiques qui ont pour objectif de toucher un très large public, les pureplayers – comme Netflix, OCS ou Amazon Prime Video – préfèrent viser des communautés bien précises. Ces derniers intègrent les goûts de la cible qu’ils ont identifiée dans la conception et le marketing de leurs nouvelles séries.
Dans Silicon Valley les personnages sont tous habillés dans le stéréotype de l’uniforme no look bien connu de la tech : t-shirt à motifs, sweat, jean banal et sneakers informes. Dans la série Empire c’est la culture street noire américaine qui est traitée de façon hyperbolique.
En reprenant les codes vestimentaires d’une certaine culture, la série s’adresse alors au public d’origine (mais pas que), pour finalement les inspirer. Un procédé qui rappelle beaucoup celui des designers de mode actuels qui prélèvent un style dans une communauté pour le réinterpréter et le revendre à ces mêmes personnes (et souvent à une clientèle luxueuse, sensible à ces références).
Ces nouvelles séries résonnent aussi avec les questionnements actuels de la mode. A l’instar des shows Empire, Sex Education et La Servante écarlate, où la diversité, l’inclusion et le rôle des femmes font partie intégrante de l’histoire.
La mode dans les séries : un booster de vente pour les marques
Forcément, si les séries influencent les préférences vestimentaires de ses spectateurs, elles permettent aussi de booster les ventes des marques portées par les personnages (ou des dupes de ses marques). Dernier exemple en lice, la série Netflix Emily in Paris qui déchaîne les passions depuis sa sortie en octobre dernier.
Réalisée par Darren Star – auteur de la mythique série Sex and the City – Emily in Paris suit les aventures d’une jeune Américaine (interprétée par Lily Collins) à Paris. Très critiquée pour ses clichés sur la capitale française, les tenues portées par l’héroïne font, quant-à-elles, l’unanimité auprès des téléspectateurs.
Derrière le dressing mode d’Emily Cooper se cache la styliste Patricia Field, à qui l’on doit également les plus beaux look dans Sex and the City et Le diable s’habille en Prada. On retrouve alors sur l’héroïne des pièces chics très souvent signées Chanel. Des looks très vite copiés, faisant exploser les recherches sur les produits de la maison de luxe française. Selon le moteur de recherche consacré à la mode Stylight, les visites sur le site commercial Chanel ont connu une augmentation de 30% dans la semaine qui a suivie la mise en ligne de la série.
Mais le phénomène Emily in Paris ne s’arrête pas à la griffe Chanel ! Lyst, la plateforme de data mode, a relevé un pic d’intérêt pour Kangol, une marque britannique bien plus abordable. Le bob rose bonbon de la marque, adopté par Lily Collins dans plusieurs épisodes a ainsi enregistré une augmentation des recherches de 342%. Merci Emily !
Avant Emily in Paris, c’est la série Netflix Stranger Things qui impactait la sphère mode en popularisant la tendance rétro. Cette série de science-fiction, se déroulant dans les années 1980, a ainsi remis au goût du jour les pièces vintages des marques Nike (comme les Cortez portées par Steve) et Levi’s (comme la veste au col en mouton ou le jean taille haute délavé).
Autre série, autre tendance, avec le blockbuster britannique Peaky Blinders, racontant les aventures de gangsters à Birmingham au début du 20ème siècle. Lors de la diffusion de la saison 5 l’an dernier, la série avait dopé de 25% les ventes des casquettes plates portées par les acteurs.
Des collaborations juteuses entre les marques de mode et les séries TV
En leur offrant une grande visibilité, les séries aident les marques de mode à gagner de nouveaux clients. Ce phénomène est d’autant plus présent chez les adolescents, grands consommateurs de séries TV. Et ce potentiel marketing n’a pas échappé aux marques d’habillement. Eric Briones, fondateur de la Paris School of Luxury et auteur de « La Génération Y et le Luxe » explique ainsi : « Les marques de mode sont conscientes de l’importance des séries et ont une peur panique de ne pas capter l’attention des jeunes consommateurs. Se retrouver dans une série leur permet d’émerger dans un océan de contenus. »
C’est ainsi qu’on voit fleurir de plus en plus de collaborations entre les marques de mode et les séries. Des collections d’accessoires et de prêt-à-porter pensées pour un large public et inspirées de l’univers de ces blockbusters. Et ça marche ! La Casa de Papel avec Diesel, Elite avec Undiz, Riverdale avec Jennyfer, Sex Education avec Pull&Bear…
Et l’une des plus marquantes est surement celle de la série Stranger Things, qui s’associe avec de nombreuses marques telles que Levi’s, Nike, H&M, Kiabi, Jennyfer ou Pull&Bear. Le phénomène gagne même la sphère du luxe, avec une version Louis Vuitton du t-shirt à l’effigie de la série.
Il faut dire que l’engouement des adolescents pour l’univers rétro des années 80 et 90 (qu’ils n’ont jamais connu) est un phénomène rentable pour les enseignes de prêt-à-porter. La semaine suivant le lancement de la dernière saison en juillet 2019, le moteur de recherche Lyst, a enregistré en France une augmentation des recherches de 800 % pour la combinaison multicolore portée par l’héroïne Eleven, de 157 % pour les mots-clés « Stranger Things », et de 111 % pour le chouchou portés par les jeunes acteurs. On peut dire que la série a été une aubaine financière pour les marques de l’habillement !
Des communautés digitales dédiées aux garde-robes des personnages de séries
Certaines garde-robes de séries inspirent tellement leurs fans, qu’ils se rejoignent sur des comptes Instagram spécialement dédiés. Ainsi, des comptes comme @RiverdaleWardrobe, @EmilyInParisOutfit, ou @VillanelleCloset (pour le dressing de Villanelle dans la série Killing Eve) décryptent les meilleurs looks des comédiens vus dans ces séries, pour proposer des vêtements similaires. Alors, si vous craquiez sur les tenues de Lily Collins dans Emily in Paris, vous savez quoi faire !
Dans la même lignée, les plateformes telles que WornOnTv ou Spotern (une start-up parisienne), permettent de retrouver les tenues identiques ou similaires à celles vues dans les séries, les films et même les clips de musique. De quoi passer en rupture de stock de nombreux articles et faire le bonheur des marques de mode.
Des acteurs de séries qui deviennent des icônes de mode
Aujourd’hui, l’aura des acteurs de série va bien au-delà de leur personnage. Ultra-suivis sur les réseaux sociaux, les comédiens influencent directement leur communauté et plus particulièrement les adolescents. Une forme d’identification se créée en voyant la star dans sa vie réelle avec ses choix de marques, et elle est sans doute encore plus puissante que l’identification à son personnage dans la fiction. La journaliste new-yorkaise Fawnia Soo Hoo – qui écrit sur les séries et la mode pour le site Fashionista – explique alors : « Ces cinq dernières années, les acteurs sont devenus de véritables icônes au pouvoir d’influence considérable ».
Il n’y a qu’à voir le nombre d’abonnés qui suit ces stars de séries télé. Les comptes personnels des héros de Stranger Things dépassent tous les 10 millions de followers sur Instagram. Elizabeth Gillies (@lizgillz), qui interprète le personnage Fallon dans Dynasty compte 12,2 millions d’abonnés. Madelaine Petsch (@madelame), alias Cheryl dans Riverdale, atteint les 20,9 millions d’abonnés sur la plateforme. Jaime Lorente Lopez (@jaimelorentelo), en tant que Denver dans La Casa De Papel et Fernando dans Elite, a quant à lui une communauté de 15,3 millions abonnés. Ces célébrités ont ainsi un potentiel d’influence gigantesque !
Et ce potentiel ne manque pas d’attirer les marques de mode. Si elles ont toujours dépensé des fortunes pour habiller les comédiens et comédiennes présents sur les tapis rouges de Cannes et d’Hollywood. Désormais, ces marques s’intéressent aussi aux acteurs et actrices de séries, en les habillant pour la promotion de leur nouvelle saison.
C’est le cas notamment de Celine, en s’associant avec la série Vernon Subutex, la marque de luxe habille l’acteur Romain Duris pour ses plateaux télé et avant-premières. Le comédien, lui-même, poste sur son compte Instagram les photos de lui en Celine, une aubaine ! Cette association n’est évidemment pas le fruit du hasard, l’univers de la série collant parfaitement aux créations d’Hedi Slimane, directeur artistique de la griffe.
Les séries, prochain business pour les marques de mode ?
Les séries, plus qu’une source de divertissement, deviennent des objets de consommation. Telles des machines à goodies, elles poussent à l’achat compulsif de vêtements. On se demanderait même « à quand la prochaine série produite par une marque de mode elle-même ? ».
Cet article vous a plu ? Retrouvez-en d’autres dans notre catégorie MODE ET BEAUTÉ !
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