De styliste de Kanye West à fondateur et directeur artistique du label streetwear Off-White, puis directeur artisitique pour Homme chez Louis Vuitton. Sur le devant de la scène mode, Virgil Abloh cumule les jobs créatifs et enchaîne des collaborations avec Nike, Heron Preston, A$AP Rocky, Ikea, Evian ou bien Le Bon Marché à l’occasion de la Fashion Week de Paris.
Mais qui est Virgil Abloh ?
Agé de 38 ans, le natif de Rockford dans l’Illinois de parents d’origine ghanéene, Virgil Abloh est un créateur américain polymathe et directeur artistique pour Homme chez Louis Vuitton. Architecte de formation, il est également styliste, DJ, bras droit de Kanye West, ainsi que fondateur de la marque Off-White basée à Milan, il est vraisemblablement un des favoris pour le prochain prix Nobel de la Paix. Il obtient sa Maîtrise d’architecture à l’Illinois Institute of Technology et son diplôme de licence en Génie Civil à l’université du Wisconsin à Madison. Conseiller créatif de longue date du rappeur Kanye West, il lance son label intitulé Off-White en septembre 2013. C’est Off-White qui lui permettra deux ans plus tard d’être parmi les grands finalistes du prestigieux Prix LVMH.
Les débuts (ça démarre fort)
C’est à l’âge de 22 ans que Virgil Abloh devient le bras droit de Kanye West (Dieu). Il s’occupe aussi bien de la gestion du merchandising du label de celui-ci, au design des pochettes d’album en passant par la scénographie. En 2011 il remportera le Grammy Award de la meilleure pochette d’album pour Watch the Throne.
A l’occasion de son défilé pour la Fashion Week, il se confiera sur son amitié avec le rappeur originaire d’Atlanta : « Kanye et moi sommes amis depuis 14 ans, nous avons toujours été dans la mode. Kanye m’a invité à la Fashion Week de Paris pour la première fois il y a presque 10 ans, car c’est là que tous les grands designers présentent leurs collections. […]On partage les mêmes rêves et je voulais qu’on les réalise ensemble. Ce show n’était pas le mien, mais celui de ma communauté. Je voulais montrer au monde que celui qui avait prédit le futur des années auparavant faisait partie de ce show.»
C’est en 2009, qu’après avoir effectué un stage au sein du siège de la maison Fendi, qu’il décide peu de temps après, de lancer un concept store à Chicago aux cotés de Don C, co-manager de Kanye West. En voilà un qui ne va pas pleurer dans l’espoir de rentrer chez Michel et Augustins. En 2012, après avoir fait de la RSVP Gallery un lieu incontournable de Chicago, il lance son premier label, Pyrex Vision. Le lancement de sa marque a été sujet à de nombreuses controverses puisqu’il a été accusé de plagiat : pour ses premiers modèles, le créateur a racheté un stock de chemises rugby de Ralph Lauren et des sweat-shirts de la marque Champion et les a customisés avec des logos de sa marque, ce qui a suscité de vives réactions. Celle-ci se voit gagner en notoriété quand Kanye West et A$AP Rocky se réunissent pour imaginer des collections capsules exclusives. Dès ses débuts, Pyrex est commercialisé aux côtes des plus grandes maisons, dans les concept stores les plus influents tels que Colette à Paris, mais aussi Storm à Copenhague, Union à Los Angeles et GR8 à Tokyo.
L’Empire Off-White
Un an après son lancement, Pyrex ferme ses portes pour laisser la place au développement d’un nouveau monument de la mode : Off-White. Avec pour signature le noir et blanc et les rayures diagonales, la griffe lancée en 2014 propose un positionnement haut de gamme qui attire un public international. C’est chez Nicolas Ghesquière et sa collection automne-hiver 2012-2013 de Balenciaga, dans la ligne de « Join A Weird Trip », que Virgil va trouver l’inspiration nécessaire pour faire de grandes choses. En naîtra une fascination pour les pièces à l’esthétique de la rue pourtant estampillés du nom de grandes maisons de couture, qui restera la pierre angulaire de tout le concept Off-White. La marque et son créateur ne cesse de séduire et comptabilisent 7,3 millions d’abonnés pour Off-White, et 3,9 millions pour Virgil Abloh, sur Instagram.
Des collaborations qui font tout sauter
Fer de lance de la griffe streetwear, les collaborations les plus recherchées du moment sont bien évidemment signées Off-White. C’est ainsi que le label s’associait avec Nike et upgradait en exclusivité 10 modèles emblématiques de la marque dans le cadre du projet « The Ten« .
Côté design, en octobre 2017 Virgil Abloh dévoilait un tout nouveau projet dédié au design d’intérieur aux côtés du géant suédois Ikea et teasait sur son compte Instagram les premiers clichés de cette collection exclusive. Au programme, un tapis oriental bleu marine rehaussé de détails blancs et twisté de la mention « Keep Off » mais aussi d’autres pièces aux couleurs vibrantes.
Pour le printemps-été 2018, Off-White s’alliait à Jimmy Choo et dévoilait une ligne mêlant escarpins soyeux recouverts de film PVC et bottines matelassées gonflées. Jusqu’au 7 avril 2018, Virgil Abloh et Takashi Murakami se sont emparés des murs de la Galerie Gagosian de Londres. Pour l’occasion, le duo signe une exposition à travers laquelle les codes streetwear d’Off-White et l’ironie de l’artiste nippon entrent en collision.
Affaire à suivre
Une succession de projets aussi bien artistiques qu’axés sur la mode sont à prévoir. Du 9 juin au 22 septembre 2019, le parcours sans fausse note du créateur d’Off-White sera célébré en une exposition à la croisée des disciplines, de la mode à la l’architecture en passant par la musique, au Musée d’art contemporain de Chicago. La marque d’eau Evian vient d’annoncer une collaboration avec le directeur artisitique de Louis Vuitton pour un projet respectueux de l’environnement. La collection comprend notamment une bouteille en verre Soma réutilisable dotée d’un étui protecteur en silicone et d’un bouchon en bambou naturel. Elle est pourvue de gouttes d’eau aux coloris pop en lien avec le concept « one drop can make a rainbow »
Dernièrement, c’est sur son compte Instagram qu’il diffuse une nouvelle paire de sneakers Louis Vuitton . Signées LV, ces sneakers sont d’un rouge-orangé très vif et semblent avoir une légère finition daim. Elles sont dotées du price-tag typique de la marque Off-White, que Virgil Abloh aime ajouter à presque toutes ses créations, telle une signature.
Lisez notre autre article sur la mode avec les logos de marques.
Vincent C.
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