Pourquoi les logos des marques de luxe sont-ils tous les mêmes?

Ces dernières années, dans le monde du luxe, un phénomène d’uniformisation est apparu : Les grandes marques, les unes après les autres, on simplifié leur logo. Rappelons que l’enjeu principal d’une identité visuelle est de permettre à la marque d’être vue et reconnue, ce qui amène à s’interroger sur cette uniformisation des logos. Quel est le réel intérêt ?

Un phénomène en vogue

Les exemples ne manquent pas. Récemment, la grande maison française CELINE a perdu son accent figurant sur le “E” et l’espace entre les lettres s’est resserré, pour donner au branding un aspect “simplifié et plus équilibré”, selon Hedi Slimane, directeur artistique de la maison.

En 2012, Slimane s’était déjà séparé du “Yves” de Yves Saint Laurent et deux années plus tard John Galliano lui avait emboîté le pas en se débarrassant du “Martin” de Maison Martin Margiela. Plus récemment, Calvin Clein, Burberry ou encore Balenciaga ont également revu leur logo, au profit d’une version plus minimaliste.

La raison principale figure dans le fait qu’à notre époque, pleine de mutation, les grandes marques cherchent à ouvrir un nouveau chapitre dans leur histoire. Des marques comme Balenciaga, dont le nom provient directement du couturier espagnol Cristobal Balenciaga, cherchent à présent à se séparer de l’héritage de ce dernier en changeant la typographie distinctive du logo au profit de quelque chose de plus universel, brut et condensé.  Le nouveau logo est une cassure avec le passé.

Balenciaga logo old new Burberry logo old new

Il en est de même pour Burberry, qui se détache de tout style de typographie et de quelconque héritage, bien que l’ajout d’un “London, England” au bas du logo cherche à créer une association positive. Ces mutations sont bien souvent corrélées avec l’arrivée de nouveaux designers, qui profitent alors d’un tableau vierge pour entamer un nouveau cycle et imposer leur vision.

Le branding au coeur de la stratégie commerciale

Les nouveaux logos ont également de réelles implications commerciales. Le style choisi par les marques est très efficace au niveau du branding. L’esthétique de la nouvelle typographie, sans-shérif, rend le logo plus épuré et lisible. Ce dernier peut alors être appliqué à des nouvelles fins. Ainsi, ces designs offrent de la flexibilité aux marques, puisqu’ils peuvent être utilisés sur n’importe quels contenants. Ce phénomène s’est accentué avec le développement du streetwear chez les grandes maisons. Désormais, une grande partie des revenus est tirée des sacs, sneakers, t-shirts et autres accessoires.

 

La plus-value de ces logos est l’habilité à rester dans l’actualité en attendant la première collection du nouveau designer. Les maisons ont réussi à impliquer le choix du designer dans le logo et ainsi faire rayonner l’aura du nouveau venu sur l’annonce. Le fait de travailler avec une personnalité permet également d’apporter un soutien promotionnel à la révélation du nouveau logo.

En optant pour une nouvelle identité visuelle, des marques comme Calvin Klein, Balenciaga, Burberry ou CELINE annoncent le commencement d’une nouvelle ère. D’un côté, cela permet aux nouveau designers de dévoiler des collections qui se démarquent de celles du fondateur, en se donnant une excuse pour mettre à jour les marques aux standards commerciaux du 21ème siècle. Le pouvoir de faire table rase du passé prouve que chaque designer est libre d’écrire sa propre histoire et de s’inscrire ou non dans les traces de celui qui lui a précédé.

TV

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