Autrefois cantonnés aux produits de rasage, les cosmétiques pour hommes ont le vent en poupe ! Gel hydratant, savon, anti-âge, baume, huile, … le rayon des cosmétiques pour hommes a connu une expansion impressionnante : + 40% depuis une étude menée en 2002. Aujourd’hui près de 65% des hommes reconnaissent faire attention à leur peau. Le marché des cosmétiques pour hommes progresse 1,5 fois plus vite que celui des femmes, et en France, il représente aujourd’hui 10,4 % du marché total, soit un chiffre d’affaires de 680 millions d’euros.
L’origine d’une telle évolution
À la base, les cosmétiques n’étaient pas ancrés dans la mentalité des hommes. Ce n’est qu’au milieu des années 90 (grâce à l’arrivée de la presse masculine mais également l’évolution des mentalités des hommes) que la cosmétique pour hommes a commencé à vraiment émerger. Et de nos jours, l’homme est de plus en plus préoccupé par son apparence : désormais, l’hygiène n’est plus un signe de féminité, mais tout simplement de bien-être, prendre soin de soi n’est plus un tabou lorsque l’on est un homme.
Des marques qui font « mâles »
En France, le « grooming », soit l’art de prendre soin de soi au masculin, s’inscrit bien dans l’air du temps. L’attention croissante accordée par les hommes à leur apparence, à leur santé et à leur ligne constitue dès lors une source d’opportunités.
L’exemple Horace
“Essentiels de soins pour mecs” : voilà comment les fondateurs de la marque de produits pour homme Horace la décrivent. Créé en 2015, cet e-shop entièrement dédié à la gente masculine répond parfaitement aux besoins de sa clientèle : sélection pointue des articles avec l’aide d’un dermatologue, livraison rapide, diagnostic personnalisé, renouvellement de produits en un clic… Autant de services qui ont permis au site de se distinguer.
La beauté masculine, un marché qui doit encore faire preuve
Inquiétude croissante quant à la dangerosité potentielle des produits cosmétiques, baisse du pouvoir d’achat qui se répercute sur les dépenses d’hygiène/beauté, un poste que les hommes auraient moins de mal à sacrifier que les femmes selon certains observateurs du secteur, ou encore multiplication des promotions sur le segment sont autant de facteurs qui impactent négativement le marché.
Il y a cependant une tendance qui a sans aucun doute (re)dynamisé le marché de l’hygiène/beauté masculine tous réseaux confondus, c’est celle du retour de la barbe ; une barbe maîtrisée, disciplinée, remise au goût du jour par les hipsters du monde entier. En 2017, L’Oréal a ainsi lancé Barber Club, une ligne inspirée du savoir-faire des barbiers vendue sous sa franchise L’Oréal Men Expert.
La barbe, une tendance au poil pour les rayons de l’hygiène masculine
Victime collatérale de cette tendance des barbes et autres moustaches : les rasoirs. Ces dernières années, leurs ventes se sont érodées. En 2018, la rentabilité de Bic a par exemple reculé, l’activité de rasage du groupe français a notamment subi de plein fouet la concurrence aux Etats-Unis de nouveaux acteurs en ligne comme le Dollar Shave Club. Spécialisée dans la vente sur Internet de rasoirs et de produits de soins de la peau destinés aux hommes, cette marque a d’ailleurs été rachetée en juillet 2016 par le géant néerlandais de l’agroalimentaire et des cosmétiques Unilever. Un montant astronomique qui prouve qu’en matière de beauté masculine comme ailleurs les géants du secteurs mises sur l’e-commerce.
L’innovation comme potentiel boosteur
Le marché mondial de la cosmétique masculine ne représente aujourd’hui que 10 % du marché mondial de la beauté, pourtant à l’instar de ce qui se passe du côté de la beauté féminine, l’innovation pourrait dynamiser ses ventes.
Mais alors que les acteurs mondiaux de la cosmétique se targuent de placer la recherche et développement au cœur de leur stratégie, les produits les plus innovants sont très largement destinés aux femmes. Il y a toutefois un segment sur lequel les choses semblent légèrement frémir c’est celui du maquillage.
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