Dans notre monde globalisé, acheter un vêtement n’est plus un acte anodin. À chaque passage à la caisse de Zara ou H&M, nous supportons un système qui fait pression sur l’environnement et exploite les êtres humains. En réponse à ce rythme intenable qu’impose la Fast Fashion, est née la Slow Fashion. Cette tendance du « moins mais mieux » prend davantage d’ampleur à mesure que les catastrophes environnementales et sanitaires se multiplient. Mais alors, qu’est-ce que la Slow Fashion ? Quels sont les acteurs qui prennent part à cette révolution de la mode ? Décryptage.
L’impact néfaste de la Fast Fashion
H&M, Asos, Zara, Pull&Bear, Mango, Boohoo, Primark, Nasty Gal… Que se cache-il derrière ces marques de Fast Fashion si populaires ?
Une catastrophe environnementale
Responsable de 10% des émissions planétaires de carbone, 20% de la pollution mondiale de l’eau, 4 millions de tonnes de textiles jetées chaque année : après le pétrole, l’industrie de la mode est la plus polluante au monde.
En effet, cette production de masse implique une consommation excessive en eau et en pesticides (pour les cultures de coton et autres matières premières), une surproduction d’emballages et d’importants moyens de transport entre les différents réseaux de distribution.
En bref, la Fast Fashion exploite massivement les ressources non renouvelables de notre terre, dans le but de remplir nos armoires déjà débordantes d’articles de mode.
D’importants risques sanitaires
Dangereux pour la planète, mais aussi pour notre santé, les vêtements issus de la Fast Fashion sont imbibés de produits chimiques et de nanoparticules.
En 2012, dans son rapport intitulé « Les dessous toxiques de la mode », Greenpeace révélait une liste de substances chimiques dangereuses (éthoxylates de nonylphénols, colorants azotiques, phtalates…) contenues dans les vêtements d’une vingtaine de marques de prêt-à-porter.
Parmi ces substances, certaines étaient classées cancérigènes, d’autres étaient des perturbateurs endocriniens (qui impactent potentiellement les fonctions reproductives et peuvent dérégler le fonctionnement hormonal).
Un désastre humain
Le point commun de ces vêtements c’est aussi leur provenance notée sur l’étiquette. Made in Pakistan, China, Bangladesh, Indonesia ou Turkey : les travailleurs de ces pays sont exploités et à peine rémunérés. Ces dernières années, plusieurs scandales ont d’ailleurs enclenché une prise de conscience sur l’impact humain désastreux de la Fast Fashion.
En avril 2013 s’effondrait l’immeuble Rana Plaza au Bangladesh, entraînant la mort de 1 100 travailleurs. Il abritait de nombreux ateliers de confection pour des grandes marques de l’habillement. Ce drame a ainsi révélé les coulisses de l’industrie dysfonctionnelle du textile, à savoir : des conditions de travail désastreuses, des heures de travail excessives, des salaires incroyablement bas, et un non-respect des normes de sécurité.
Plus récemment, le peuple Ouïghour fait l’objet d’une totale violation de ses droits humains. En mars 2020, l’Australian Strategic Policy Institute (ASPI) publiait un rapport dans lequel il faisait état de 83 marques de renommée mondiale participant à l’exploitation de cette minorité en Chine. De surcroît, 38 d’entre elles appartiennent au secteur du textile : Nike, Abercrombie & Fitch, Adidas, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste, Puma, Uniqlo, Victoria’s Secret, C&A, Calvin Klein, Gap, H&M, Fila, The North Face, … et la liste est encore longue.
Un cercle vicieux de sur-consommation
Mais pourquoi n’arrivons-nous pas à sortir de ce schéma catastrophique ? C’est que l’industrie du textile a réussi à construire un véritable cercle vicieux d’hyper-consommation.
Le renouvellement permanent des collections, les tendances éphémères, la mauvaise qualité des vêtements et leurs prix particulièrement bas créent les conditions parfaites pour la consommation de masse.
On assiste à une péremption rapide et accélérée des vêtements et un sentiment de manque constant chez les consommateurs. Impossible alors de sortir de cet engrenage ? Pas tout à fait.
La réponse de la Slow Fashion
En opposition à l’industrie du textile de masse qu’est la Fast Fashion, la Slow Fashion prône le ralentissement de la mode. Une nouvelle manière de consommer la mode, où la qualité est préférée à la quantité.
La Slow Fashion est une démarche globale qui s’inscrit sur l’ensemble des aspects de la création vestimentaire. L’objectif est de réduire au maximum son empreinte sur l’environnement. Notamment par une utilisation de matières premières plus écologiques et de meilleure qualité, une production plus locale ainsi que des techniques de production plus respectueuses de l’environnement. Ce processus doit s’effectuer dans le respect de l’ensemble des intervenants tout au long de la chaîne de valeur et des consommateurs.
Ce sont donc des collections de vêtements conçues dans le respect de l’environnement et de l’homme, afin d’être conservées saison après saison. De quoi consommer de façon plus réfléchie et responsable.
Les marques engagées pour une mode responsable
Ce nouveau mode de consommation est porté par un éco-système de jeunes marques désireuses de répondre à ces valeurs d’éthique, de responsabilité et de durabilité.
Veja, le pionnier de la basket clean
L’un des premiers dans le domaine, c’est la marque française de basket Veja. Coton organique, caoutchouc sauvage, cuir végétal travaillé sans métaux lourds. De la production aux transports, Veja affiche un bilan environnemental impeccable.
D’autres marques se sont engagées pour une mode durable, traçable et humaine, à l’instar de Thelma Rose, Ekyog, People Tree, 1083, Panafrica, Patine, Hopaal, ou encore Loom. Une bonne nouvelle !
L’upcycling, ou comment faire du neuf avec du vieux
Pourquoi produire plus alors qu’il y a tant de matières à réutiliser sur notre planète ? C’est de ce postulat qu’est né le concept de l’upcycling. Pour Anaïs Dautais Warmel, créatrice de Les Récupérables, l’upcycling c’est l’« Action de récupérer des matières ou matériaux non utilisés et de les transformer en matières ou matériaux de qualité supérieure ». Sa marque est entièrement basée sur ce principe et propose des vêtements de qualité, issus d’un travail de revalorisation du textile. Nappes, draps, rideaux, tissus d’ameublement, housses de couette, … Les textiles de seconde main sont collectés dans des relais ou des recycleries dans le but de leur redonner vie.
Autre exemple avec la marque Patagonia qui met à disposition de ses clients des repair & care guides. Cette fois, c’est vous-même qui allez rapiécer vos vêtements, grâce à ces tutoriels. Le DIY à la cote ! Customiser ses vêtements pour les remettre au goût du jour est une manière ludique et créative de faire de l’upcycling.
Le Green Friday en opposition au Black Friday
Le mouvement de Slow Fashion débarque aussi au moment du Black Friday. En opposition à cet avènement de la sur-consommation, des marques prennent le parti du Green Friday. C’est le cas de l’enseigne française Aigle qui a annoncé la fermeture de son e-shop pour la journée du 27 novembre. À la place, les internautes auront accès à une plateforme nommée « Second Souffle » dédiée à la seconde main. Ils pourront l’utiliser pour donner leurs vêtements achetés chez Aigle en l’échange de bons d’achat ou bien pour acheter ces mêmes vêtements d’occasion. Une bonne idée pour prolonger le cycle de vie de nos vêtements et de nos chaussures !
D’autres acteurs du « consommer mieux »
Bien que la Slow Fashion attire de plus en plus de consommateurs, il n’est pas toujours facile de mener cette transition. Ainsi, apparaissent de nombreux acteurs qui ont pour but de simplifier l’appropriation de ces comportements vertueux.
Les applications de décryptage
Comme pour vous aider dans vos choix alimentaire et cosmétiques, il existe des applications qui vous aident dans vos choix de vêtements. On les appelle les Yuka de la mode !
L’une des plus connues, Good on you, classe les marques de mode selon leur bilan environnemental et éthique, en analysant la main d’oeuvre, la gestion des ressources naturelles et le respect animal. Pour chaque requête, l’appli propose une alternative clean. Une autre appli, cette fois made in France, Clear Fashion décryptent les vêtements que vous scannez en fonction des engagements environnementaux, humains, animaliers et sanitaires de la marque. Cette évaluation donne un degré d’éthique via une note entre 0 et 100. Pratique pour y voir plus clair !
Les labels comme garantie
Parce que la transparence est la clé d’une mode eco-friendly, les labels permettent d’informer les consommateurs sur la qualité et l’origine des vêtements.
Ainsi, le label World Fair Tarde garantit la confection éthique d’un vêtement éco-responsable, le label GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certifie l’origine biologique des tissus et le respect de critères sociaux au cours de leur fabrication, le label Oeko-Tex garantit quant à lui l’absence de substances néfastes pour l’Homme ou l’environnement dans les textiles.
Il existe également la plateforme Sloweare, qui propose un annuaire de marques engagées, répondants à leur label de confiance en matière de mode éco-responsable. Au total, ce sont une soixantaine de marques textile qui ont été strictement auditées.
Les market place sous le signe de la Slow Fashion
Toujours dans le souci de simplifier le décryptage des marques de mode, des market place regroupant des marques engagées ont également vu le jour. Parmi eux : klow.co, wedressfair.fr, dressingresponsable.fr, dreamact.eu, bloomers.eco. Un vrai gain de temps pour découvrir une nouvelle façon de consommer !
Seconde main, recyclage et location, ne les oublions pas !
On ne les présente plus, ces modes de consommation alternatifs, qui disent stop à la production de nouveaux vêtements, font désormais partie intégrante du marché de la mode. Vinted, Vestiaire Collective, Leboncoin, les vides dressing, les friperies… L’économie collaborative est tendance ! Recycler également, que vous déposiez vos vieux vêtements dans les bornes Le Relais, EcoTextile ou même dans certains magasins comme H&M. La location de vêtements est aussi en pleine effervescence, avec des plateformes comme Le closet. De quoi donner une seconde vie à de nombreux vêtements.
Le mouvement Slow Fashion sur les réseaux sociaux
Sans surprise, le phénomène de Slow Fashion s’est aussi emparé des réseaux sociaux. De nombreuses bloggeuses font de ce mode de vie « Slow » leur ligne éditoriale. À l’instar de Rosa Bohneur, Clara Victorya, Mathilde Clauzet, Anne Dressing Idéal, Elena Sans H, Let’s Talk Slow, Happy New Green… Elles partagent avec leurs abonnés des marques éco-responsables, des tuto coutures, des bonnes affaires vintages, et pleins de conseils pour consommer plus intelligemment la mode. De réelles communautés se créent alors autour de ses sujets, une influence plus que positive !
Les médias se mette également à promouvoir la Slow Fashion. Make My Clothes Great again, The Good Goods ou encore Nouveau Modèle nous parle de mode et de lifestyle éco-responsables.
Les réseaux sociaux sont aussi l’endroit où, chaque année depuis la catastrophe du Rana Plaza, la Fashion Revolution Week a lieu à la fin du mois d’avril. Pendant une semaine, tous les acteurs de la mode responsable mettent en lumière les ravages de la Fast Fashion, et promeuvent des alternatives durables à celles-ci. Accompagné du hashtag #WhoMadeMyClothes (qui a fabriqué mes vêtements ?), chacun est invité à poster une image de ses vêtements avec l’étiquette apparente (pour voir la provenance), afin de questionner une enseigne.
La cohabitation entre la Fast et la Slow Fashion
Toutes ces actions en faveur d’une mode plus lente amorce une réelle prise de conscience sur le secteur du textile. Progressivement, un nombre croissant de marques, d’influenceurs et de médias communiquent de manière authentique et transparente à ce sujet. Cependant, la Fast Fashion est loin d’avoir perdu sa clientèle. Pour l’instant, on assiste à une cohabitation entre ces deux modes de consommation. Un jour, la Slow Fashion deviendra peut-être le modèle dominant, mais ce n’est pas encore d’actualité.
Si vous voulez en savoir plus sur le sujet de la mode responsable, je vous invite à lire l’article « Fashion Pact : un an après, la mode est-elle plus écologique ?« .
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