Les marques et la discrimination c’est ÇA !
La discrimination c’est le fait de faire une distinction sur une personne en créant un rejet selon l’origine sociale ou ethnique, la religion, le genre, le niveau d’intelligence, l’état de santé, etc.
On peut apercevoir cette discrimination dans notre vie quotidienne et c’est naturellement qu’elle est présente dans la publicité qui est considérée comme le « reflet de la société ».
La discrimination dans la communication des marques
L’exclusion de certains types de personnes
1 : EN FONCTION DE LEUR COULEUR DE PEAU
Voici par exemple le défilé printemps de Misha Collection, une marque australienne en 2016. Les mannequins, blanches, défilent sur la musique Formation de Beyonce. Une chanson qui revendique le black power et le mouvement des Black Lives Matter, considérée comme l’une de ses musiques les plus politique.
Beaucoup d’internautes ont questionné le choix de cette musique, si c’est pour n’inclure aucune femme noire dans son défilé. Même si il y a de l’amélioration, les mannequins sont encore blancs à 72% dans les défilés.
2 : EN FONCTION DE LEUR ÂGE
Une discrimination dont on parle moins et qui est pourtant très présente est celle liée à l’âge.
Ce sont les femmes qui le subissent le plus, en particulier dans les milieux de la mode et du cinéma. La plupart des actrices admettent qu’elles ont beaucoup plus de mal à trouver un rôle après 30 ans et les chiffres sont édifiants : 74% des personnes à l’écran de plus de 40 ans sont des hommes. Une loi a d’ailleurs été votée en Californie pour faire enlever des sites l’âge des actrices.
Dans la publicité, c’est le même combat. 2 cas de figure :
- 1 : les actrices ou mannequins qui jouent dans les publicités sont très jeunes. Prenons l’exemple de La Provencale Bio, la nouvelle marque de cosmétiques bio de L’Oréal lancée il y a tout juste un an et de sa publicité pour sa crème de Jouvence anti-âge. On peut voir que l’actrice qui utilise la crème n’a pas encore 25 ans.
- 2 : lorsque la marque choisit des mannequins ou actrices d’un âge un peu plus avancé, qui correspond donc mieux à la cible du produit, elles sont excessivement retouchées. Voici un exemple d’une pub avec Julia Roberts pour un fond de teint miracle, qui ont été interdites de diffusion en Angleterre qui a jugé le visage de l’actrice trop retouché.
La discrimination pure et simple
Après l’exclusion des minorités de la communication des marques, voici ce qui se passe lorsqu’elles tentent de les inclure. Et parfois, c’est encore pire.
1 : LES CLICHÉS
Voici une publicité Airbnb avec un parallèle entre une femme et un homme. La location d’appartement paie la collection de chaussures de la femme alors qu’elle aide à financer la start-up du monsieur. Comme si un homme n’était pas attiré par les chaussures ou qu’une femme ne pouvait pas être entrepreneuse.
Regardons aussi cette publicité pour un grand centre commercial de Roubaix avec la mention : « Seuls 4 mots peuvent rendre leur sourire aux femmes : « Je t’aime » et « Soldes ».
Chez les enfants a particulièrement les clichés sont importants. Depuis leur plus jeune âge on apprend aux filles à être douces et gentilles et aux garçons à être sportif et débrouillard. Et le plus flagrant se trouve sur leurs jeux et jouets.
On voit ici 2 exemples qui montrent à quel point le petit garçon est considéré comme intelligent et la fille comme une pipelette, une qui veut cacher ses secrets.
Une page Facebook compile d’ailleurs tous les abus de ce genre. Il s’agit de Pépite Sexiste.
2 : L’APPROPRIATION CULTURELLE
Certaines marques peuvent être considérées comme faisant de l’appropriation culturelle. Kim Kardashian, d’abord star de téléréalité puis femme d’affaires, possède la marque de maquillage KKW Beauty. En juillet 2019, elle décide de lancer une marque de sous-vêtements gainant appelée Kimono (pour le jeu de mot avec Kim). Cependant au Japon, le kimono est un vêtement traditionnel de grande importance, relié à de très anciennes traditions et une pétition a été lancée pour lui demander de changer le nom, par respect. Voyant les nombreuses demandes, même une du maire de Kyoto, elle a rebaptisé sa marque SKIMS.
Les avancées en terme de discrimination dans la communication des marques
Les avancées
1 : LA DISCRIMINATION POSITIVE
Fait de favoriser certains groupes de personnes victimes de discrimination en vue de rétablir l’égalité des chances. Macron avait promis pendant sa campagne une parité dans son gouvernement et c’est chose faite. Cependant, les postes les plus importants sont tenus par des hommes.
2 : L’INCLUSION
Pro Infirmis, une organisation de personnes handicapées, lance sa campagne nationale «Nous sommes tous égaux. Car tous différents». Le thème de l’inclusion est traité pour une fois sous un autre angle. La campagne est basée sur un film humoristique comprenant 13 personnages en situation de handicap.
Les motivations
1 : LE CHANGEMENT DES MENTALITÉS
Prenons l’exemple d’Eram qui voulait en finir avec le fameux « ils se marièrent, vécurent heureux, eurent beaucoup d’enfants et ne divorcèrent jamais » des publicitaires. Ils veulent montrer la famille divorcée, homoparentale, recomposée, etc.
Cette publicité a été très bien accueillie par le public qui se reconnaît ENFIN dans l’image véhiculée par la publicité.
Cependant souvent, quand on se frotte à l’inclusion, il y a des détracteurs.
Le blog du chrétien libre a déclaré « On aura rarement vu une propagande dégénérée, anti-familiale et métisseuse aussi grossière, aussi énorme ! Vous savez maintenant où ne pas acheter vos chaussures ». Plusieurs prêtres et associations catholiques ont aussi criées au scandale.
2 : LA VIRALITÉ DU BAD BUZZ
H&M avait subi un bad buzz en 2018 suite à cette photo avec un petit garçon noir portant un sweat avec l’inscription « Coolest monkey in the jungle » (« Le singe le plus cool de la jungle »).
Cette photo a fait scandale sur les réseaux sociaux mais aussi à la télévision où les chaînes d’infos en ont beaucoup parlées. Beaucoup appelaient d’ailleurs au boycott de la marque.
En comparaison, sur une autre photo, un petit garçon blanc avec un sweat shirt avec marqué « Mangrove Jungle » et un tigre.
La marque a enlevé ce produit et cette image et s’est excusée. Cependant, les ventes des magasins qui étaient déjà en baisse ont continué de baisser et certains artistes comme The Weekend a annoncé qu’il ne voulait plus collaborer avec la marque.
Les marques ont peur pour leur image et tentent donc de proposer des campagnes de communication plus inclusives.
On a vu que la discrimination dans la communication des marques n’est pas un cas isolé et représente même une grosse partie des publicités proposées par les marques. Si elles pouvaient le faire en toute impunité avant l’ère du numérique, c’est maintenant beaucoup plus compliqué de ne pas proposer du contenu « inclusif ».
Certaines marques de luxes comme Chanel, Gucci et Prada nomment d’ailleurs des responsables de la diversité pour ne plus refaire leurs erreurs passées comme de l’appropriation culturelle, des publicités racistes ou sexistes.
On peut se demander si ce renouveau dans la communication est une réelle prise de conscience de la part des marques ou alors des actions totalement intéressées et en surface, comme pourrait l’être le greenwashing.
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