« La base d’une paire de VEJA : se tenir debout avec un pied dans le design et un pied dans l’engagement. », tel est le credo de Veja, la marque écologique de baskets française qui s’est imposée comme la référence en termes de production durable et responsable.
Quelle est cette marque atypique qui concurrence des mastodontes comme Nike ou Adidas sans aucun budget communication ? On vous dit tout !
Veja, la marque écologique mondialement reconnue
Qu’on se le dise, en 2004, dans le milieu de la mode, on se foutait du développement durable (et même pas seulement dans le milieu de la mode d’ailleurs…). C’est pourtant le pari qu’ont pris Sébastien Kopp et François-Ghislain Marillion, deux amis de longue date et anciens auditeurs d’usines textiles chinoises, en misant sur la basket, symbole d’une génération.
Plus de quinze ans plus tard, Veja, la marque écologique française est devenue une référence mondiale, avec plus de 1500 points de vente à travers le monde, dont 2 magasins propres, à Paris et à New-York, et un chiffre d’affaires de 34 millions d’euros en 2018.
Avec maintenant une quinzaine de modèles, dont la Condor, une paire de running lancée durant l’automne dernier, composée à 53% de matériaux naturels et recyclés et nécessitant 4 ans de recherche et développement, Veja a su s’imposer sur un marché déjà investi par des poids lourds comme Nike ou Adidas, à prix de vente égal.
Un contre-pied à la fast-fashion
Responsable à elle seule de 10% d’émissions mondiales de carbone, l’industrie de la mode est une catastrophe écologique. Les nombreuses campagnes de green-washing lancées par les marques pour dissimuler leurs modes de production destructeurs et irraisonnés, couplées à une prise de conscience générale sur la nécessité de tendre vers une transition écologique, pousse les consommateurs à se tourner vers des marques plus respectueuses de l’environnement.
Répondant à cette demande croissante, Veja se distingue des autres marques de baskets sur 3 points :
- Une production responsable : les matières premières utilisées dans la fabrication des baskets sont toutes écologiques : coton bio, caoutchouc naturel, bouteilles de plastique recyclé… De surcroît, Veja travaille directement avec les producteurs et leur achète les matériaux à un prix décorrélé de celui du marché, permettant aux familles des producteurs de dégager un salaire décent, loin de celui proposé par les acteurs de la fast-fashion.
2. Un business modèle à part : dans l’industrie de la mode, le marketing et la communication représentent 70% des coûts, contre 30% pour la fabrication. Pour arriver à un prix équivalent à celui des concurrents du marché, sachant que la fabrication d’une paire de Veja coûte 5 à 7 fois plus cher, due aux matières premières utilisées et à la main d’œuvre plus justement rétribuée, Veja a fait un choix aux antipodes des pratiques du secteur : 0 publicité. La rémunération d’influenceurs est aussi exclue chez Veja.
Le caoutchouc d’Amazonie récolté sur un Hévéa
3. Un renouvellement perpétuel : forcément, le modèle possède des limites. Mais la marque ne s’en cache pas, puisque tout est clairement expliqué sur son site : les œillets sont en métal qui n’est pas sourcé, les pigments utilisés pour la teinture ne sont pas naturels, de 2015 à 2017 le coton utilisé était recyclé (et non bio) dû à la sécheresse et aux attaques d’insectes au Brésil…
Le besoin d’engagement et de transparence des marques n’ayant jamais été aussi fort, Veja tire encore une fois son épingle du jeu en révélant ses failles, plutôt que les dissimuler derrière des campagnes faussement vertes. La marque, cherche constamment à se renouveler en testant de nouvelles matières, de nouveaux substituts, pour réussir à proposer le produit le plus vertueux possible.
Pour résumer, Sébastien Kopp énonce dans cette interview la volonté de la marque : « L’idée est simple et n’appelle pas de concession : intégrer l’écologie, le développement social et la justice économique au cœur même du produit, de la production à la conception jusqu’à la vente. »
Alors que la tendance est de produire vite et de vendre plus, la marque écologique au grand V a pris le contre-pied en prouvant qu’il est aujourd’hui possible de produire et de perdurer dans le secteur de la mode, en ayant une approche responsable, tout au long de la chaîne de production.
Et ce modèle innovant porte ses fruits. En 2018, Veja était la marque la plus influente sur Instagram, selon Lyst, le moteur de recherche dédié à la mode.
Super article 🙂 il me semble que Véja a aussi stoppé la production d’un de ses modèles de chaussures pendant un moment. Le modèle avait eu tellement de succès sur le marché US, que produire les quantités attendues par les consommateurs n’aurait pas été compatible avec le mode de production raisonné qu’ils promeuvent. Je n’ai pas la source en tête, mais ça montre aussi en quoi la marque se positionne à contre courant de la fast-fashion 🙂
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