Nous l’avons vu avec la montée en puissance de Yuka, les applications de scan connaissent un succès de plus en plus important. Qu’elles s’appellent Buy or Not, Open Food Facts ou Yuka, ces applications ont un objectif commun : nous aider à mieux manger en déchiffrant les étiquettes et évaluant les produits que nous consommons. Fort de ce succès qui révèle une tendance de fond de la société, les applications de scan s’attaquent désormais au marché des cosmétiques avec le même objectif : aider les consommateurs à toujours mieux consommer.
De multiples acteurs
Yuka
Depuis mi-2018, la plus connue des applications de scan a élargi son périmètre d’action vers les cosmétiques et produits d’hygiène. Les notes vont de 0 à 100 en fonction des ingrédients composant le produit, et l’application propose des alternatives. Se basant sur les études scientifiques disponibles à ce jour, elle applique un malus dès qu’un ingrédient est controversé.
INCI Beauty
Basée sur le même principe de scan, INCI Beauty note les produits sur 20 et classe les ingrédients en fonction de leur concentration dans le produit. L’application permet également de rechercher directement un produit ou un ingrédient sans avoir à scanner l’étiquette.
QuelCosmetic
Lancée par l’association de consommateurs UFC Que Choisir, QuelCosmetic évalue et note les produits de A à D en fonction de la nocivité de ses ingrédients. La note attribuée est différente en fonction de trois cibles : adultes, enfants et femmes enceintes.
Une tendance applicable aux cosmétiques ?
Dans le secteur alimentaire, Yuka a rapidement été adoptée par les consommateurs et a participé à une évolution des pratiques de consommation. Selon le dernier rapport de Yuka, 95% des utilisateurs ont arrêté d’acheter des produits contenant des additifs controversés. Son influence est telle qu’elle a poussé les gros acteurs du marché à changer la composition de leurs produits pour avoir une meilleure note sur l’application, comme Intermarché qui a annoncé vouloir retirer 142 additifs de 900 produits d’ici 1 an et demi.
Les applications de notation de cosmétiques peuvent-elles avoir le même effet sur leur secteur ? Le parallèle entre les deux secteurs est plus compliqué qu’il n’y parait. Dans l’alimentaire, il y a déjà beaucoup moins d’ingrédients que dans les cosmétiques. Il est donc plus facile de les identifier et les analyser séparément. Les cosmétiques sont constitués de formules chimiques complexes, comprenant beaucoup d’ingrédients qui réagissent entre eux à l’intérieur du produit. Ainsi, il est beaucoup plus compliqué d’analyser l’ensemble d’une formule en prenant en compte l’effet d’un ingrédient sur l’autre…
Les limites des applications de notation de cosmétiques
Preuve de cette difficulté d’analyse : les différences de notation d’un même produit d’une application à une autre. Sur les 3 applications citées précédemment, si globalement un même produit a une note équivalente, il arrive pour certains que la note varie d’un extrême à l’autre. Ce décalage est dû à la subjectivité d’analyse de chaque application. Les algorithmes de notation sont en effet paramétrés en fonction de certains critères, qui peuvent ne pas être pris en compte chez l’application concurrente. Par exemple chez Yuka, les ingrédients allergisants font systématiquement baisser la note globale du produit. À contrario pour INCI Beauty, le caractère allergisant est indiqué mais n’influence pas la note finale.
Alors que faire ?
Malgré l’aide de toutes ces applications, se faire un avis fiable sur les produits cosmétiques est une tâche délicate. La meilleure solution reste encore de croiser les informations, et en cas de doute de vérifier les ingrédients plus en détail. Une autre solution est de se tourner vers des produits aux compositions plus naturelles et moins à risque, souvent marqués par les logos Cosmebio ou Cosmos Organic d’Ecocert.
Lucas Gélis-Lecerf
C’est top que cela ait poussé les distributeurs comme Intermarché à améliorer les composants de leurs produits !
Analyses et comparatifs très clairs. Très utile pour aiguiller le consommateur.
Vraiment très intéressant et instructif Bravo
Une belle initiative, les starts ups innovantes qui veulent du bien au consommateur devraient être encouragés!!
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