Avec son offre abondante et bon marché, difficile de passer à côté du phénomène Vinted.
A l’heure où la consommation de « Fast Fashion » est décriée, la plateforme de revente en ligne semble être l’alternative idéale pour une consommation responsable. Vinted joue au maximum sur cette image mais est-elle réellement une plateforme vertueuse ou nouvelle source d’hyperconsommation ?
Propulsée par la pandémie du COVID-19, la croissance exponentielle de la plateforme Vinted a de quoi faire rêver.
Lancée en 2008 à Vilnius en Lituanie et arrivée en France en 2013, la plateforme fédère 37 millions d’utilisateurs actifs en Europe et 16 millions en France.
La montée en puissance est telle que l’application a obtenu le statut de « licorne » (une startup valorisée à plus d’un milliard de dollars) fin 2019.
Favorisée à la fois par une prise de conscience généralisée sur l’impact environnemental et l’explosion de la vente en ligne (paiement sécurisé, facilitation des livraisons…), l’application Vinted donne une nouvelle jeunesse au vide grenier d’antan.
Vinted communique sur l’image d’une plateforme écologiquement responsable bénéficiant de la remise en cause totale de l’industrie textile à bas prix, plus communément appelé « Fast Fashion ». Cette dernière est fortement décriée pour son impact social et environnemental. En jouant la carte de l’acteur indispensable de l’économie circulaire, Vinted attire toujours plus de fidèles et se place comme leadeur sur le marché prometteur de la seconde main.
Mais cette image d’entreprise alternative et vertueuse est trompeuse.
« Permettre de se faire de l’argent tout en renouvelant son dressing » voici la réelle promesse de Vinted et elle ressemble dangereusement au concept même du Fast Fashion (« Renouveler en permanence sa garde-robe sans se ruiner. »)
En effet, Vinted pousse les utilisateurs à vendre des vêtements d’occasion pour acheter davantage de vêtements (qu’ils soient neufs ou d’occasion).
« Dans un premier temps, j’utilisais Vinted pour faire un peu de place dans mes placards et vendre quelques articles que je ne porte plus (…). Mais forcément, avec toutes les tentations, on renouvelle sa garde-robe »relate une étudiante de 20 ans au site Korii de Slate.fr.
Il faut dire que le site attire par sa facilité d’utilisation. Le design, l’ergonomie, la simplicité d’achat (recherche par filtres et de mise en vente…) tout est pensé pour garder les vinties (désignation donnée aux utilisateurs Vinted) sur l’application quitte à les amener vers une utilisation frôlant l’addiction.
En un clic, l’utilisateur peut soit accéder à des centaines de bonnes affaires, soit augmenter son pouvoir d’achat grâce à la vente de ses habits. Cet appât du bon plan encourage le consumérisme et prolonge numériquement notre surconsommation.
En effet, une fois la vente effectuée, le vinties dépensera aussitôt l’argent gagné dans un autre vêtement. Pour preuve, la mise en place d’un portefeuille virtuelle poussant à redépenser immédiatement sur la plateforme.
Ces deux statistiques mettent en lumière la face cachée de l’entreprise : faire de la place dans son armoire et gagner de l’argent pout racheter toujours plus. Une idéologie nous rappelant le renouvellement incessant voulu de l’industrie du Fast Fashion.
A cela s’ajoute, une déculpabilisation de consommer à outrance. Conscients de l’impact alarmant de l’industrie textile, les vinties sont convaincus de réaliser une action vertueuse et responsable.
Bien que l’approche de faire « revivre ses vêtements » est à saluer, la vérité l’est moins puisqu’elle ne permet pas de modifier profondément notre façon de consommer.
La plupart des vêtements vendus proviennent des grandes enseignes de Fast Fashion, mais notre consommation en est déculpabilisée puisque la démarche d’aller dans cette boutique ne provient pas de l’acheteur en lui-même : « Je donne de l’argent à une personne et non à la marque. Pour moi, c’est une autre économie, l’économie entre particuliers » cite Chloé sur Slate.fr
L’approche vis-à-vis du vêtement est elle aussi complétement bouleversée. Vinted nous donne l’autorisation de nous lasser de nos vêtements puisque le revendre sera d’une simplicité déconcertante.
Ainsi, nous sommes plus à même d’acheter des pièces originales qui ne tiendront qu’une seule saison dans nos garde-robes avant de finir sur la plateforme de revente plutôt que des pièces intemporelles.
Enfin, l’application entraîne l’apparition d’une multitude de « professionnels » de la revente. Les enseignes de Fast Fashion privilégient les collections rapides, renouvelées toutes les semaines. Ainsi, il n’est pas rare de voir la pièce à la mode être affichée « indisponible » sur les sites des grandes enseignes. Seule solution pour les fashionistas, se rendre sur Vinted pour chercher la pièce tant convoitée.
Les vendeuses, à l’affût du potentiel de l’achat, peuvent tirer des bénéfices en revendant plus cher.
Le site Vinted se révèle au final un véritable accélérateur de Fast Fashion. Preuve de ce phénomène contestable, la récupération du concept par des marques traditionnelles.
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