La Fast-Fashion : écoresponsable ou non ?
Les grandes enseignes de fast fashion comme Zara ou H&M connaissent une popularité monstrueuse auprès de notre jeunesse. L’accès à des collections différentes tous les mois, un renouvellement fort appréciable pour une partie de la population qui veut dépenser peu pour des vêtements modernes. Sont-elles écoresponsables ?
On parle également de plus en plus de greenwashing, ces marques qui veulent faire croire à leur engagement écologique mais qui dans la réalité ne sont pas des enfants de chœur… On pense aux grandes affaires sur H&M dans le milieu de la mode.
Mais alors, au milieu de ces marques toutes plus mensongères les unes que les autres, aurait on une entreprise réellement éco-responsable, qui porterait dans son cœur la planète et sa sauvegarde en bon état ? Mesdames et messieurs, je vais vous présenter l’histoire d’une marque pas comme les autres : Patagonia.
PATAGONIA : Une marque pas comme les autres
L’histoire de Patagonia est essentiellement rattachée à celle d’un homme : son fondateur Yvon Chouinard. Ce dernier a découvert l’escalade en 1953, à l’âge de 14 ans alors qu’il était membre d’un club de dressage de faucons (le « Club de Fauconnerie de la Californie du Sud »). Patagonia est lié au sport de montagne depuis l’histoire de sa création.
Elle a toujours été novatrice dans son développement, la marque a par exemple un vrai laboratoire qui a permis la mise au point de matières comme le Synchilla (tissu double-face, souple, retient la chaleur), le polyester traité Capilene (matière initialement utilisée sur les maillots de foot et qui disperse l’humidité vers l’extérieur).
Autre anecdote, depuis 1984, Patagonia fut l’une des premières entreprises à instaurer l’open space dans ses bureaux et à faire disparaitre les bureaux privés. L’entreprise propose même une garderie à ses employés pour leurs enfants, une cafétéria servant de la nourriture saine (et principalement végétarienne). Depuis toujours, les employés s’habillent comme bon leur semble, et profitent de leur pause-déjeuner pour aller surfer par exemple. C’est un modèle d’éco-responsabilité mais aussi de bien-être pour ses salariés. Revenons maintenant dans le présent.
FAST-FASHION : Leur impact environnemental
En effet, La « fast fashion » et le monde du prêt-à-porter représentent une source de pollution considérable : émissions de gaz à effet de serre, consommation d’eau et polluants déversés dans la nature pour la production et le traitement des matières premières, ne font que croître. Les marques de mode (peu importe la gamme) sont de plus en plus critiquées car le public se représente des enseignes comme Zara et H&M qui créent cette pollution.
Fort heureusement, il existe aujourd’hui des alternatives respectueuses de l’environnement, des entreprises qui ont à cœur d’apporter leur pierre à l’édifice pour la protection de la planète comme Patagonia dont on parle aujourd’hui.
Vêtements écoresponsables : C’est quoi ?
Nous allons définir ce qu’est une production de vêtements écoresponsables.
- Ce sont en premier lieu des matériaux qui respectent l’environnement : le coton, le chanvre ou le lin par exemple doivent être issues de l’agriculture biologique, donc produits sans l’utilisation de pesticides et d’OGM en respectant cycles de la terre. On peut aussi citer la question des travailleurs et des salariés qui doivent être traités comme il le faut, de manière légale, avec une rémunération juste, surtout pour la récolte et la transformation des matières premières.
- La fabrication doit aussi limiter son empreinte sur la planète. Elle doit faire particulièrement attention à ses dépenses en eau mais également aux traitements chimiques de ses vêtements écoresponsables qui sont chez certaines marques problématiques pour l’atmosphère.
- Aussi, il faut limiter son impact environnemental due au transport des matières premières et marchandises (pollution due au CO2). En effet, une marque éthique, écologique et responsable préfèrera choisir une production locale plutôt que de délocaliser.
Certains labels peuvent vous aider à vous tourner vers des entreprises respectueuses de l’environnement, c’est le cas des labels Bio Équitable, GOTS, WTFO ou encore Oko-Tex.
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