Shein à Paris, Shein à Toulouse, Shein à Montpellier, Shein à Lille puis Shein à Toulon, tant de grandes villes qui ont accepté en 2022 d’accueillir les pop-up stores du géant chinois de l’ultra-fashion.
Et la tournée française n’est pas finie ! En 2023, elle a repris en s’installant dans la 3ème plus grande ville de France.
Du 11 au 14 mars dernier, Shein Lyon était dans le quartier de la Part-Dieu.
La multiplication des ouvertures de ces boutiques Shein pose de nombreux problèmes.
Si certains acteurs et mouvements font entendre leur mécontentement pour dissuader, politiques comme consommateurs, d’accepter la venue de ce type d’acteur sur le sol français, c’est que l’impact négatif est d’ampleur sociale, environnementale et économique.
De nombreux articles traitent d’ailleurs plus en profondeur ces sujets, notamment sur ce blog, alors aujourd’hui je vais plutôt m’intéresser au volet communication, utilisé par ou pour mettre en valeur ces pop-up stores.
Une stratégie de communication trompeuse autour de la marque Shein
#1 : Une stratégie d’influence pour séduire des consommateurs non-avertis
Depuis le début, le géant chinois privilégie les micro-influenceurs pour communiquer sur son offre. Car bien qu’ils aient une audience restreinte, ses influenceurs ont des avantages non-négligeables comme des liens particulièrement étroits avec leur communauté permettant une conversion plus facile et accessible au vu du budget dépensé par les marques.
Seulement, ces micro-influenceurs ne sont, pour la plupart, ni suivis ni encadrés par des professionnels de la communication. La taille de leur communauté et leur volume de collaboration restent négligeables, managers ou agence d’influence ne sont donc pas sollicités.
Mais cela impacte leur communication et trompe leur public. Voici deux exemples :
– En étant moins avisés sur Shein et les conditions de travail de ses salariés, ils font la promotion d’un scandale social.– En n’étant pas suffisamment sensibilisés sur l’impact de la consommation de vêtements sur l’environnement, ils utilisent des messages non-ecoresponsables.
Nous sommes loin du marketing d’influence responsable ! Shein en profite pour que ses clients continuent de fermer les yeux sur ses pratiques et consomment dans la plus grande insouciance.
#2 : Une communication démesurée sur la promotion
Shein est bien connu pour son argument de vente phare, celui de rendre la mode accessible à tous. Mais à quel prix ?
Communiquant avec les médias sur un prix de vente moyen de 7 € pour ses articles, les consommateurs non-avertis accourent en faisant des heures de queue pour espérer accéder au pop-up store avant sa fermeture.
La stratégie en ligne est elle, encore plus agressive où toute action est récompensée de réductions (inscription à la newsletter, récupération de codes promo chez les influenceurs). Tout est bon pour réduire le prix et créer l’occasion d’achat chez leurs clients.
Et pendant ce temps, ce sont les petits commerçants qui en payent les conséquences. Les voisins de ces boutiques éphémères s’agacent d’une concurrence des prix trop dure, de produits de mauvaise qualité et de valeurs inexistantes en contradiction totale avec les enjeux sociétaux. Parce que oui, à ce prix, beaucoup de sacrifices sur toute la chaîne de valeur ont été réalisés, et ce, au détriment de chacune des personnes qui y travaillent ainsi que des lieux où cette chaîne passe.
« Si on respectait les droits du travail et la planète, une robe à 3€ ne devrait pas exister » souligne Marie Nguyen, Cofondatrice de We Dress Fair, marque de commerce de vêtements écoresponsables.
https://actu.fr/auvergne-rhone-alpes/lyon_69123/shein-ouvre-une-boutique-a-lyon-le-coup-de-gueule-de-cette-commercante_57980283.html
« Ils viennent détruire des emplois locaux, car les jeunes vont se diriger vers eux plutôt qu’ailleurs, comme chez des indépendants locaux. Ils viennent inonder Lyon après avoir inondé le web. »
#3 : Une communication poussant à la surconsommation
Shein est l’acteur incarnant le mieux le principe de l’ultra fast-fashion. Avec entre 2 000 et 6 000 nouveautés par jour à la vente d’après Marie Nguyen, les consommateurs n’ont même pas le temps de profiter de leurs achats qu’une nouvelle collection les interpelle.
Et si le géant chinois se défend avec les arguments de recyclage incitatif par avec leur programme mis en place lors des pop-up stores ou évoque encore leur engagement à utiliser plus souvent des matériaux recyclés, cela ne suffit pas pour s’éloigner de leur modèle de vente poussant au consumérisme.
D’ailleurs preuve en est, on retrouve beaucoup des vêtements provenant de la fast-fashion sur les plateformes de seconde main, dans les points de récupération de vêtements ou encore dans les poubelles ménagères si ce n’est dans les pays d’Afrique…
J’en profite d’ailleurs pour rappeler que mettre ses vêtements sur des plateformes de seconde main ne doit pas être une bonne raison de pouvoir surconsommer. Réduire la production actuelle et future en augmentant la durée de vie des articles de mode est le réel objectif.
Ce qu’il faut retenir 🫶
Si vous êtes un acteur de la mode éloignez-vous du modèle de Shein. Si vous êtes Shein, éloignez-vous de votre propre modèle.
La mode responsable doit voir le jour et inspirer de nouvelles habitudes de consommation. Pas d’inquiétude, nous pourrons continuer à nous habiller, à exprimer notre style même en utilisant des solutions de revalorisation de l’existant. L’important est de le faire mieux et de façon raisonné pour garantir de bonnes conditions de travail sur toute la chaîne de valeur de la mode et aussi réduire l’impact individuel de consommation sur l’environnement. Et comme vous avez pu le lire, la communication peut intervenir pour informer et a son rôle à jouer.
Pour vous informer sur ces solutions, je vous invite à consulter un média comme The Good Goods qui est le premier média mode éco-responsable ou encore une infographie comme La mode sens dessus-dessous par l’Ademe, qui parle du phénomène et des conséquences de la fast fashion.
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