La crise des Ouïghours a eu un retentissement mondial en 2019. En effet, de nombreuses entreprises mondialement connues ont été cité tout au long de ce conflit. Cependant, nous pouvons nous demander quelles en sont les enjeux pour ces entreprises accusées ?
Tout d’abord, commençons par un petit récapitulatif des enjeux de ce conflit. A l’origine du conflit des ouïghours, une matière première essentielle notamment dans le monde du textile : le coton. En effet, la Chine et principalement la province du Xinjiang est un acteur majeur de la production mondiale de coton avec 20% de sa production mondiale dont 85% de cette province. En plus, de cette importante production, il se trouve également que la province du Xinjiang a une des meilleures qualités de coton au monde. Cependant, cette province est majoritairement peuplée par une minorité musulmane, les Ouïghours, qui selon les principaux défenseurs des droits humains sont réprimés et exploités par le régime communiste présent à Pékin.
D’importants enjeux pour les marques ?
En effet, nous pouvons nous interroger sur le fait de savoir si cette crise a eu une répercussion sur les marques. Tout d’abord, il faut différencier les marques engagées des marques non engagées. Que signifie ce terme de marque engagée me direz-vous ? La notion de marque engagée fait référence à une marque reconnue ses engagements d’un point de vue économique, sociétal et environnemental. Cette notion fait donc dans la plupart du temps référence à un engagement supérieur à une banale démarche de qualité ou de RSE. Les répercussions pour les marques engagées vont être par conséquent extrêmement importantes d’un point de vue de la crédibilité car si vous décidez de reculer sur vos engagements, vous perdez toute crédibilité. Cependant, si vous décidez de rester sur votre position de marque engagée, vous vous coupez de l’entièreté du marché chinois qui est le poumon de l’économie mondiale, il y a donc un enjeu financier primordial.
Nous pouvons prendre comme exemple Nike qui a connu une croissance exponentielle de ses ventes en Chine avec une croissance de 51% alors qu’elles ont progressé de seulement 3% au niveau mondial sachant que 20% de son chiffre d’affaires annuel est réalisé par le marché chinois. Cette faible évolution au niveau mondial peut s’expliquer par le fait que Nike est historiquement un acteur majeur de l’activisme sociétal aux Etats-Unis et ailleurs en dénonçant souvent la ségrégation raciale et en soutenant des sportifs engagés comme Colin Kaepernick ou Megan Rapinoe. Par conséquent, la marque a beaucoup perdu en crédibilité aux yeux des consommateurs en ne prenant pas position sur ce sujet, ce qui explique cette faible hausse.
De rares prises de positions …
Le cas de Nike, n’est pas un cas isolé dans le monde des marques, en effet, à la suite du boycott chinois, certaines marques sont revenues sur leurs positions et engagements concernant le travail forcé, en retirant des communiqués de presse ou bien en modifiant leurs positions. Ce qui est le cas par exemple d’Inditex qui ne fait plus spécifiquement allusion à la province du Xinjiang dans ses principes de « tolérance zéro » figurant notamment sur son site. Autre exemple, Shein ou bien H&M qui a déclaré ne pas vouloir endosser une quelconque position politique. La majorité des marques préfèrent rester silencieuses, en attendant de voir si cette crise des Ouïghours retombent.
Cependant, si de nombreuses entreprises décident de ne prendre aucune position, il en existe quelques-unes qui prennent position dans ce conflit comme la chaîne italienne de vêtements OVS qui a annoncé qu’elle décidait d’arrêter de se fournir en coton issu de la province du Xinjiang, tout en appelant les autres marques à ne pas céder aux pressions et à choisir leur camp à savoir les droits humains ou les intérêts commerciaux.
Des pressions envers les marques ?
Si certaines marques ont choisi leur camp, certaines cèdent à la pression médiatique notamment celle provenant des réseaux sociaux chinois. En effet, à la suite de l’exhumation de communiqués de H&M et Nike par des internautes où ces groupes spécifiaient qu’ils n’utilisaient pas de coton provenant de la province du Xinjiang, à la suite des allégations de d’esclavage moderne imposé aux Ouïghours. La déclaration de Nike figurait parmi les tendances les plus fortes ce jeudi sur Weibo qui est le Twitter chinois. La polémique visant Nike devenant de plus en plus grande, un acteur et une actrice très connus en Chine, Wang Yibo et Tan Songyun, ont annoncé couper leurs liens avec la marque, dont ils étaient les ambassadeurs d’image.
Quant à H&M, la marque a soudainement disparu, de plateformes d’e-commerce tel que Taobao et Tmall du géant chinois Alibaba. De plus, les vêtements de la très célèbre marque suédoise de vêtements étaient eux aussi introuvables sur les sites : JD.com et Pinduoduo, qui sont les deux autres grands acteurs de la vente en ligne en Chine. Dans un même temps, deux célèbres stars de cinéma chinoises, à savoir Song Qian et Huang Xuan, déclaraient mettre un terme à leur partenariat avec la marque, en précisant qu’ils préféraient placer les intérêts de leur pays avant tout. Alors que sur les réseaux sociaux chinois, une succession de critiques et d’appels au boycott ont émergé comme sur Weibo, où la Ligue de la jeunesse communiste a accusé H&M de répandre de fausses rumeurs pour boycotter le coton du Xinjiang, tout en voulant gagner de l’argent en Chine. Tandis que les médias officiels chinois se sont fait le relais de ces nombreuses critiques d’internautes chinois comme le site China News où on pouvait lire : « Pas de respect, pas de business » ou encore la chaîne CCTV qui accusait H&M de « manger le riz chinois tout en cassant le bol ».
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