Depuis plus de dix ans, le phénomène de collection capsule envahit la planète mode. Nées d’une collaboration entre une marque et un artiste, un créateur ou une célébrité, ces collections éphémères sont rapidement devenues synonymes de succès commerciaux.
Au-delà du parti pris artistique, ces collaborations s’avèrent être des outils marketing particulièrement efficaces pour les marques souhaitant diversifier leur clientèle et s’offrir une large visibilité. Pour le plus grand plaisir des fashionistas, les marques s’engagent dans une course à la collaboration la plus insolite, la plus surprenante et surtout la plus exceptionnelle. Mais, la collection capsule ne se résume pas à accoler simplement deux logos sur un même vêtement pour que la magie opère. Il est primordial de créer une cohésion naturelle entre les marques et que chacune conserve et reste fidèle à son image.
H&M, précurseur du genre
En 2004, Karl Lagerfeld, alors directeur artistique des maisons Chanel et Fendi, est le premier à s’associer au géant suédois H&M le temps d’une collection. Pour la première fois, l’univers très élitiste du luxe se prête au jeu d’une enseigne de fast-fashion. Karl Lagerfeld signe plusieurs pièces ultra-tendances vendues à des prix abordables. Le succès est immédiat et les fashionistas du monde entier se précipitent en magasins. La collection devient rapidement sold-out.
Depuis cette campagne, le terme de collection capsule se démocratise dans le monde de la mode. Face à un tel engouement, H&M décide de renouveler ses collaborations chaque année. A son palmarès, l’enseigne ajoute d’autres créateurs de renom tels que Isabel Marant, Sonia Rykiel, Olivier Rousteing ou encore Versace.
Attention : l’idée n’est pas d’acheter du luxe à moindre coût mais plutôt mais plutôt de s’offrir le regard d’un créateur sur la mode. On n’achète pas du Balmain chez H&M mais du Balmain pour H&M.
Sur le modèle d’H&M, plusieurs enseignes se sont lancées dans l’aventure des collections capsules. Uniqlo par exemple multiplie ses collaborations avec notamment le créateur JW Anderson ou encore avec la mannequin Inès de la Fressange.
Plus qu’une collaboration, un événement mode !
Une collection capsule réussie est celle dont tout le monde parle, celle qui crée le buzz. Mais, face à la surenchère actuelle des collaborations mode, comment parvenir à se démarquer ?
Le secret est dans la communication… Plusieurs semaines avant la sortie en boutique des collections capsules, les marques multiplient les posts sur les réseaux sociaux, les publicités et les vidéos de teasing, le but est de créer l’événement autour de la capsule. Plus les images de la collection seront likées, commentées, tweetées, retweetées et plus son succès est garanti. Les dés sont lancés avant même que les vêtements ne soient proposés à la vente. La guerre des « collabs » est déclarée, que le meilleur gagne !
Jouer sur la rareté pour stimuler la demande
L’une des clés du succès de la collaboration mode réside dans la rareté des produits proposés. Les quelques pièces exclusives qui constituent la collection capsule sont distribuées en quantités limitées et sur une courte période. Cette pratique n’est d’ailleurs pas sans rappeler les codes du luxe.
En 2017, lors de la Fashion Week masculine, la maison Louis Vuitton dévoile une surprenante collaboration avec la marque de référence dans le monde du streetwear new-yorkais : Suprême. Avant même la fin du défilé, les images des sacs couverts du rouge Suprême et des vêtements siglés des deux logos font le tour du monde. Alliance artistique surprenante sachant que Louis Vuitton avait engagé en 2000 des poursuites judiciaires contre Suprême pour usage non autorisé de son logo. Mais dans l’univers impitoyable de la mode, pas de temps pour la rancœur !
Les quelques pièces de la collection capsule deviennent des must-have et sont distribuées au compte-goutte dans quelques concept-store bâtis pour l’occasion. Plus-value assurée à la revente pour les heureux acheteurs !
Collections capsules & star system
De plus en plus d’enseignes s’associent avec des chanteurs, acteurs, sportifs ou influenceurs pour signer une ligne de vêtement à leurs noms. Le but est de profiter de l’influence de ces célébrités sur leur communauté de followers pour la diriger vers la marque, leur implication dans le design des produits semble illusoire.
Lorsque la chanteuse Rihanna signe en l’espace de 5 ans des collections de chaussures, de chaussettes, de soutiens-gorge ou encore de cosmétiques, la question de sa véritable contribution se pose. Mais, si les plus méfiants n’y voient qu’une grossière opération marketing, nombreux sont ceux qui se laissent séduire par ces collections et y voient un moyen de s’identifier à leur idole. C’est bien connu, certains noms font vendre, et si on nous dit que Rihanna sait tout faire, c’est sûrement le cas !
La folie des grandeurs
En 2016, le label visionnaire Vetements pousse le concept de collection capsule à son paroxysme et réussit l’exploit de collaborer avec 18 marques différentes au sein d’un même défilé. Entre autres Levi’s, Reebok, Carhartt, Eastpak ou Dr. Martens se prêtent au jeu de cette collaboration géante. Le label va même jusqu’à s’associer avec le transporteur DHL (pourquoi pas après tout ?!).
Donner l’illusion que tout est possible, s’offrir du rêve à bas prix …démocratisation ou simple opération marketing ?
La réponse vous appartient…
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