Le prêt-à-porter, deuxième secteur le plus polluant au monde
Du champ de coton à la boutique, un jean parcourt en moyenne 1,5 fois le tour de la planète. Une note sévère qui prouve une réalité encore trop sous-estimée : l’industrie du textile représente l’une des plus polluantes au monde.
Un secteur à lourd impact environnemental : Selon l’Ademe, 624.000 tonnes de textile sont mis sur le marché chaque année en France, soit environ 9,5 kg par habitant. Et en moyenne, une personne achète 60% de vêtements en plus qu’il y a 15 ans mais les conservent moitié moins longtemps.
Pour lutter contre ce fléau, le gouvernement français souhaite réagir et créer un plan d’action pour accélérer la transition écologique du pays. Promulguée fin janvier, la loi anti-gaspillage prévoit d’imposer une note environnementale aux vêtements afin d’aider le consommateur dans le choix de ses produits.
Un système de notation juste
À l’image du Nutri-score mis en place dans le secteur de l’alimentaire, cette note ira de la lettre A à la lettre E pour les moins avancés en terme de responsabilité écologique. La note sera également accompagnée d’un logo représentant une planète bleue symbolisant la prise en compte des divers impacts environnementaux (émissions de CO2, épuisement des ressources, pollution de l’air ou de l’eau…). Cette note a également comme intérêt de prendre en compte l’intégralité du cycle de vie du produit : des matières premières, à la distribution et jusqu’à la fin de vie du produit.
Un système de notation en expérimentation
Dans le secteur du textile, deux enseignes se sont démarquées pour commencer l’expérimentation de ce système de notation des vêtements. Nous retrouvons la marque Okaidi, chaîne de magasins de vêtements spécialisée pour les enfants et nouveaux nés, s’est lancée la première dans cette aventure en novembre 2018.
C’est ensuite l’enseigne Décathlon, dédiée aux équipements sportifs qui a souhaité mettre en place un étiquetage environnement sur certains de ses produits. C’est ainsi que plus de 1 500 articles ont été étiquetés d’une note environnementale ces deux dernières années. L’objectif, aujourd’hui, est d’aller au-delà du stade expérimental et d’imposer ce système de notation à l’ensemble du secteur du textile.
«L’objectif est que d’ici 18 mois cette méthodologie sorte, qu’elle fasse l’objet d’un décret d’application et qu’elle soit mise en oeuvre dans la foulée, avant la fin du quinquennat» a expliqué Brune Poirson, la secrétaire d’Etat à la Transition écologique.
Encourager les produits naturels
Au delà du côté scolaire, ce système de notation vise à encourager l’économie circulaire et sensibiliser les acheteurs aux gaspillages de ressources naturelles, et finalement, inciter les consommateurs à réutiliser. Également, cette notation va encourager l’écoconception auprès des fabricants. En effet, l’analyse du cycle de vie du produit viendra mettre en lumière les failles de la conception du vêtement et aidera les marques à améliorer leur empreinte énergétique. Finalement, en valorisant les produits naturels, cette petite note permettra une transition écologique de tout un secteur économique.
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