Si l’industrie du luxe a pris son temps pour s’insérer dans l’ère du digital, elle rattrape aujourd’hui considérablement son retard sur le numérique, mais ne va-t-elle pas trop loin?
Le luxe a beau avoir commencé sa transformation digitale sur le tard, il en maîtrise désormais tous les aspects. Objets connectés, sur-représentation sur les réseaux sociaux, processus d’achats digitalisés et expériences client toujours plus immersives, les Maisons de luxe sont en profonde mutation et modernisation. Le digital représente en effet le principal enjeux de ces dernières années puisqu’il permet à cette industrie d’impressionner toujours plus et de marquer considérablement les esprits.
Le digital ouvre également une passerelle directe vers les clients et vers leurs habitudes. Cela fait quelques années que les marques de luxe ont compris l’intérêt du digital pour capter les jeunes générations, qui représentent à elles seules les trois-quarts de la hausse du marché. Satisfaire les attentes d’une clientèle de plus en plus connectée, les Millenials, est donc devenu la grande priorité de toutes les Maisons. Sans perdre de son prestige, le secteur du luxe trouve alors une nouvelle identité et un nouveau positionnement.
Le premier a avoir intégré les enjeux du numérique est Olivier Rousteing, le charismatique directeur artistique de Balmain. Jeune surdoué de la mode, il a su assurer le succès de l’enseigne en gagnant des followers sur les réseaux sociaux et en axant la communication de la marque sur le digital, quitte à aller parfois trop loin pour certains !
Tout dernièrement, Olivier Rousteing a dévoilé le nom de trois modèles choisis pour intégrer les rangs de son « Army », composée jusqu’à présent d’égéries prestigieuses comme Rihanna ou Beyoncé. Alors que tout le monde s’attendait à voir des stars internationales rejoindre l’équipe, le DA a défrayé la chronique en présentant Margot, Zhi et Shudu, des mannequins très spéciaux puisque ce sont en réalité des créatures…virtuelles, inventées de toute pièce sur ordinateur! Chacune propose son propre style, offrant une certaine image de la perfection pixelisée.
Ce buzz savamment orchestré fait beaucoup parler en bien et en mal aussi puisqu’il est le symbole d’un mouvement qui bouscule le milieu du mannequinat et du luxe : l’avènement de muses numériques. Si certains trouvent dans cette initiative une manière de contredire intelligemment les standards de beauté construits par la société, d’autres y voient une tentative de rendre encore une fois les Hommes obsolètes face au digital.
Outre une disponibilité à toute épreuve, ces modèles totalement digitaux ont un autre avantage : leurs abonnés sur les réseaux sociaux, importants dans un monde avide de data. Tout ça a de quoi affoler les marques de luxe, prêtes à tout pour conquérir le coeur des Digital Natives, cette jeune génération dont nous avons parlé précédemment et qui est née avec un portable entre les mains.
Shudu n’a pas séduit uniquement Balmain, mais elle a aussi conquis Fenty Beauty qui lui a fait porter sur une photo un de ses rouges à lèvres, donnant ainsi une grande visibilité à la marque ainsi qu’au mannequin virtuel. Depuis ces deux collaborations, cette beauté numérique a «posé» pour Vogue et sélectionne avec soin ses partenariats.
Ses gains, quant à eux, tombent directement dans la poche de son créateur, Cameron James-Wilson, qui a même poussé le principe à son paroxysme en créant une agence de mannequins digitaux, The Diigitals Agency, composée de 7 mannequins. Noonoori, la première de la série avec déjà 300 000 abonnés sur Instagram, fait chavirer le coeur des grandes Maisons de luxe, de Dior à Lanvin, en passant par Prada, Balenciaga ou encore Versace.
Le créateur a volontairement voulu qu’elle n’ait pas l’air trop «réelle» pour ne pas contribuer aux diktats irréalistes de la beauté. Elle possède cependant une vraie personnalité . Pour citer le créateur, «C’est une personnes digitale avec une âme . Elle a des valeurs et une éthique : Noonoori est vegan et antifourrure». Signe des temps, Noonoori est même depuis le mois de septembre la première top virtuelle à être représentée par IMG Models, une des plus prestigieuses agences du monde.
De quoi s’inquiéter pour nos mannequins traditionnels qui, après avoir dû redoubler d’efforts pour correspondre aux attentent des marques, se voient désormais perdre des contrats au profit de ces créatures virtuelles qui font apparemment aussi bien le travail qu’eux, voire mieux!
Alors, d’après vous, les mannequins virtuels vont-ils détrôner les top models conventionnels ?
Si cet article vous a intéressé, rends-vous sur Gnitekram !
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