La liste de la honte, les marques exploitant les ouïghours
Connaissez-vous la liste de la honte ? Cette liste de la honte, aussi appelée parfois le mur de la honte, est une liste de 83 marques accusées d’exploiter les ouïgours en Chine.
En Chine, un peuple est persécuté par le gouvernement chinois, cette population est celle des ouïghours. Ce peuple est constamment martyrisé et parmi les plus fortes violences faites à ce peuple, se trouve les camps d’enfermement afin de les rééduquer.
Ces camps d’enfermements sont des camps dans lesquels les ouïghours travaillent pour de grandes marques internationales. Dans ces camps, ils sont surveillés 24h/24, suivent des cours de mandarin et subissent une rééducation idéologique. Plus de 80 000 ouïghours travaillent ou ont travaillé, dans 27 usines chinoises, afin de fournir les marques mondiales.
Voici la liste complète des marques accusées :
Abercrombie & Fitch, Acer, Adidas, Alstom, Amazon, Apple, ASUS, BAIC Motor, BMW, Bombardier, Bosch, BYD, Calvin Klein, Candy, Carter’s, Cerruti 1881, Changan Automobile, Cisco, CRRC, Dell, Electrolux, Fila, Founder Group, GAC Group (automobiles), Gap, Geely Auto, General Electric, General Motors, Google, H&M, Haier, Hart Schaffner Marx, Hisense, Hitachi, HP, HTC, Huawei, iFlyTek, Jack & Jones, Jaguar, Japan Display Inc., L.L.Bean, Lacoste, Land Rover, Lenovo, LG, Li-Ning, Mayor, Meizu, Mercedes-Benz, MG, Microsoft, Mitsubishi, Mitsumi, Nike, Nintendo, Nokia, The North Face, Oculus, Oppo, Panasonic, Polo Ralph Lauren, Puma, Roewe, SAIC Motor, Samsung, SGMW, Sharp, Siemens, Skechers, Sony, TDK, Tommy Hilfiger, Toshiba, Tsinghua Tongfang, Uniqlo, Victoria’s Secret, Vivo, Volkswagen, Xiaomi, Zara, Zegna, ZTE.
Parmi ces marques, plusieurs secteurs sont concernés. Tout d’abord, le secteur de la mode et du textile est surreprésenté avec 38 marques présentes dans cette liste. Ensuite, dans cette liste, des entreprises du secteur de l’électronique, de l’automobile ou de la production de batterie sont incriminées.
Ces marques sont responsables et doivent répondre de leur acte. En effet, de nombreuses entreprises enfreignent les lois interdisant l’importation de biens produits en ayant recours au travail forcé.
Le secteur du textile pointé du doigt
Le secteur du textile et de la mode en général est très présent dans cette liste de la honte. Et ce n’est pas sans raison. En effet, la Chine est un pays très important pour la production de textile mondiale. La plupart des vêtements présents dans le monde impliquent la Chine dans leur chaîne de production, que ce soit pour les matières premières ou encore pour l’assemblage.
Les 27 usines chinoises se situent dans la région de Xinjiang. Cette région est connue pour son coton. En effet, plus de 20% du coton produit dans le monde vient de cette région. Et bien entendu, ce coton est produit par la population ouïghours via le travail forcé. Cette main-d’œuvre est considérée comme bon marché et accessible.
Des dénonciations en masse
Les appels à l’action des associations et personnages publics
A la suite de la diffusion de cette liste de la honte, les associations et personnages publics se sont indignés.
Raphaël Gluckman, le député européen, a notamment été un des premiers a dénoncé cette pratique, via une campagne sur les réseaux sociaux. Sa publication Instagram a été très largement vue et partagée sur les réseaux sociaux. Le député, dans sa publication, appelle la population à faire pression sur ces marques accusées afin de les inciter à stopper leur collaboration avec ces usines, les fournisseurs et les sous-traitants utilisant le travail forcé des ouïghours.
Des associations et ONG se sont également emparées de l’affaire. Plus de 180 ONG ont réalisé un appel à l’action demandant aux entreprises d’arrêter ces collaborations.
D’autres associations telles que L’institut Ouïgours d’Europe, le collectif Ethique sur l’étiquette l’organisation Sherpa ont porté plainte contre 4 groupes et marques mondiales. Skechers, Uniqlo, le groupe Inditex ou encore le groupe SMCP (Sandro, Mage, Claudie Pierlot, de Furzac) sont accusés de crimes contre l’humanité et de recel de génocide.
Le boycott des citoyens
En plus de la parole des personnages publics et des actions réalisées par les associations, les citoyens souhaitent également faire avancer les choses en mettant des bâtons dans les roues des marques accusées.
La société est de plus en plus sensible aux droits humains et souhaitent consommer en lien avec leurs valeurs. Cette liste de la honte a donc provoqué des vagues d’indignation et de révolte de la part des citoyens.
Le boycott est l’une des armes les plus efficaces. En effet, de nombreuses personnes se sont mises à boycotter les marques utilisant le travail forcé des ouïghours. La dénonciation sur les réseaux sociaux, en exposant publiquement les marques, est également une action réalisée par les citoyens. Le but est de les pousser à revoir leur chaîne de production et d’approvisionnement.
L’intervention de l’état
Une avancée de la part de l’Etat a eu lieu en Janvier 2022. L’assemblée nationale a reconnu le génocide des ouïghours en Chine. D’autres pays l’ont également fait comme le Royaume Unie, le Canada ou les Etats Unies.
De plus, depuis 2017, les entreprises sont soumises au devoir de vigilance. Le devoir de vigilance signifie que les marques doivent prévenir toute atteinte aux droits humains mais également environnementaux dans leur chaîne de production (c’est-à-dire les activités de leurs entreprises mais aussi de leurs sous-traitants).
Les enseignes exploitent soit directement la main d’œuvre ouïgours, c’est-à-dire qu’elles ont des usines dans la région de Xinjiang, ou alors elles exploitent indirectement à travers des fournisseurs avec des usines de cette région ou des sous traitants.
Ces entreprises sont, pour la plupart des cas, au courant de cette exploitation de la population ouïghours. Elles peuvent donc être condamnées pour avoir fait appel à cette main d’œuvre.
Des changements de la part des marques incriminées ?
A la suite de ce scandale, plusieurs marques ont décidé d’arrêter de s’approvisionner en coton de la région de Xinjiang. Parmi ces entreprises, on retrouve Adidas, Nike ou encore Lacoste.
Cependant, d’autres marques n’ont pas reconnu les faits et certaines ne se sont même pas exprimées. En ne s’exprimant pas sur le sujet, ces marques souhaitent garder leur image de marque et ne pas ruiner leur réputation en admettant les faits.
Suite au mouvement de retrait de certaines entreprises mondiales dans la région de Xinjiang, le gouvernement chinois a réagi. Tout d’abord, la Chine ne reconnaît pas les faits de génocides sur la population Ouïghours. Le pays a également décidé de boycotter les marques qui se sont retirées. Certaines marques ont notamment été enlevées de la plateforme Alibaba. Des internautes chinois ont également réagi en publiant sur les réseaux sociaux chinois des messages de haine.
Suite au boycott chinois, des marques qui s’étaient initialement retirées sont revenues sur leur décision. C’est le cas des entreprises Zara, H&M ou encore Hugo Boss. Les marques Zara et H&M ont supprimé leurs déclarations réalisées sur la population Ouïghours. La marque Hugo Boss, quant à elle, revendique l’utilisation du coton de Xinjiang.
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Bonjour, je suis dépitée, meurtrie, mais tellement honteuse et coupable d’avoir ignoré cette situation dramatique que vivent les ouïgours ! Je ne vois qu’une seule alternative à mon niveau… le BOYCOTT des marques ,et la diffusion de cette liste auprès de mes connaissances !
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