En 2022, on estime que plus de 50 millions de personnes sont des victimes d’esclavage moderne. Longtemps après l’abolition officielle de l’esclavage, cette pratique non seulement perdure mais prospère. Qu’il s’agisse de femmes travaillant dans des ateliers clandestins de l’électronique ou de l’habillement, d’enfants dans des fours à briques ou des exploitations de cacao, ou d’hommes piégés par le travail forcé sur des chantiers de construction, des millions de personnes dans le monde sont malheureusement contraintes de travailler par la coercition et l’intimidation.
Dans un monde où les inégalités et les compromis entre les nantis et les démunis se creusent, les consommateurs, les entreprises et les gouvernements font tous partie du problème et de la solution. Si nous, nous sommes tous habitués à la fast fashion et aux biens de consommation bon marché, le caractère abordable de ces produits a souvent pour prix l’exploitation humaine.
ASPI, L’ONG qui a mis H&M dans le pétrin
ASPI, une ONG australienne, est un groupe d’experts indépendant et non partisan qui produit des conseils experts et opportuns pour les dirigeants australiens et mondiaux, mais pas que. Ces derniers ont fait part d’une étude qui fait froid dans le dos. Et qui surtout, fait mal au coeur.
Vous avez forcément entendu parler des Ouïghours, une minorité musulmane chinoise dont plus d’un million a disparu dans un vaste réseau de camps de rééducation à Xinjiang. Les détails publiquement annoncés nous ont été épargnés, mais nous savons tous que c’est un génocide culturel, une excuse pour le travail forcé et l’esclavage moderne. Une approche inhumaine a été adoptée, ce qui veut dire que ces personnes ne sont pas traitées comme des humains mais comme des « lots » de travailleurs. D’après une note officielle de la Karakax List, on explique que “Pour chaque lot de travailleurs entraîné, un lot d’emplois sera aménagé avant le transfert.”
Des preuves récentes indiquent que des détenus « diplômés » des « camps de rééducation » du Xinjiang ont été envoyés directement dans des usines pour travailler dans d’autres régions de Chine. Dans de telles circonstances, il est peu probable que leurs conditions de travail soient volontaires.
Au final, les recherches de l’ONG ont permis d’identifier 82 entreprises étrangères et chinoises bénéficiant potentiellement, directement ou indirectement, de l’utilisation de travailleurs ouïghours en dehors du Xinjiang par le biais de programmes de transfert de main-d’œuvre abusifs, aussi récemment qu’en 2020. Parmi ces entreprises, on trouve: Abercrombie & Fitch, Adidas, Calvin Klein, Gap, Huawei, The North Face, Tommy Hilfiger, Uniqlo, Victoria’s Secret, Inditex (qui détient les marques Zara, Bershka, Massimo Duti) et surtout H&M.
Les données sont basées sur les rapports des médias, les fournisseurs déclarés ainsi que les listes de fournisseurs publiées par ces entreprises. L’ONG australienne a décidé de contacter ces marques pour se renseigner à propos de leurs sources de produits.
L’ASPI note qu’un petit nombre de marques ont indiqué qu’elles avaient demandé à leurs fournisseurs de mettre fin à leurs relations avec ces derniers en 2020. D’autres, dont Adidas, Bosch et Panasonic, ont déclaré ne pas avoir de relations contractuelles directes avec les fournisseurs impliqués dans les systèmes de travail, mais aucune marque n’a été en mesure d’exclure un lien en aval de sa chaîne d’approvisionnement.
Concernant H&M, qui rencontre depuis pas mal de temps des difficultés concernant le volume de production et la rapidité de création de leurs collections, a reçu un grand coup. Pourtant, leur réaction a été très rapide (même plus rapide que leurs lancements de collections)! Ils se sont engagés à prendre une décision très importante concernant leur chaîne de production afin d’exclure toutes les usines qui sont concernées par l’esclavage et le travail forcé des Ouïghours.
Après une enquête effectuée par ASPI, ils ont déduit que H&M a coupé toute relation avec ses fournisseurs chinois incriminés. Certes, cette décision a apaisé plusieurs consciences, mais encore une fois l’entreprise suédoise a reçu un grand coup. Comme conséquence de cette rupture de contrat, les consommateurs chinois ont menacé de boycotter la marque à leur tour.
Nous vivons dans un monde où seuls les intérêts financiers comptent, peu importe le mode de fabrication, pourvu que cela rapporte plus compte tenu du fait que c’est produit par des esclaves du monde moderne.
Notre seul pouvoir consiste à refuser de consommer les fabrications en Chine qui exploitent les êtres humains, mais pas que, d’autres pays pauvres comme l’Inde souffrent de ce problème et ont besoin de notre mobilisation et volonté afin d’affronter ces lobbies.
#fashion, #chine, #esclavage, #moderne, #ouighours, #fastfashion, #h&m
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