La mode évolue, les standards de beauté aussi. De nouvelles icônes apparaissent, et les plus grands photographes se les arrachent. Les flashs crépitent. Qu’ont-elles de si particulier, et en quoi sont-elle différentes des anciens canons de beauté : elles sont transgenre.
Le périmètre de « la norme » s’élargit, et la liberté d’expression s’applique alors à tout le monde.
La beauté a-t-elle un sexe ? Un homme peut être belle et une femme peut être beau, oui, et les pionniers de ce secteur nous l’ont prouvé.
Voici une liste non-exhaustive des nouvelles icônes trans sur les marques de cosmétiques.
Hari Nef : Une hit-girl de 24 ans
Hari Nef promeut le nouveau fond de teint de L’Oréal Paris, mais surtout la diversité et l’acceptation de soi dans le dernier spot publicitaire du mastodonte de la beauté.
« Si la notion d’esthétique féminine exclue les femmes qui ont un réel besoin de s’en débarrasser, alors la notion d’esthétique féminine a besoin de changer« , argue-t-elle.
Tim Coolican, directeur général adjoint de L’Oréal Paris explique ce choix par une volonté de la marque d’encourager toujours plus de tolérance. « En mettant en valeur une grande diversité d’égéries et en expliquant les origines de leur couleur de peau » … « la beauté permet de se sentir à l’aise dans sa propre peau. »
Indya Moore : L’actrice transgenre aux multiples facettes.
C’est dans la série Pose, sur Canal +, qu’Indya Moore s’est révélée. Jeune actrice, née dans un corps d’homme, a crevé le petit écran avant de devenir l’égérie de Louis Vuitton et Calvin Klein. Fervente militante, elle illumine les podiums avec son physique radieux. À seulement 24 ans, l’actrice transgenre dévore la vie à pleines dents et réalise ses nouveaux projets avec passion. Elle aime faire le show et elle le montre.
Elle veut montrer que l’amour n’a pas de couleur, pas de frontière, et le montre à travers tous ces projets professionnels.
Teddy Quinlivan : Une icône engagée qui veut faire bouger la mode.
« L’industrie de la mode a une puissance et une force de frappe rares. Elle est parfois la source du changement social » dit-elle.
Elle prête alors son visage à la nouvelle campagne beauté de la maison, « Chanel Pick Me Up », dans le but de faire bouger les choses.
La mode appartient à la culture, où la question de la représentation est devenue incontournable. Dans un monde binaire où se confrontent divers débats, sujets tabous, que ce soit sur la religion, la sexualité où encore tant d’autres thèmes, de nouvelles voix parviennent à se faire entendre, et c’est le cas de Teddy Quinlivan, mannequin américaine de 25 ans, qui, après l’élection de Donald Trump à la présidence des Etats-Unis, a fait son coming-out Trans.
Laith Ashley : Le beau-gosse transgenre, élevé dans un milieu très catholique.
Non vous ne rêvez pas, ce mâle alpha est bien né petite fille.
« Dès l’âge de 4 ans, j’ai su que j’étais différent, mais je devais faire avec les croyances que l’on m’inculquait. L’homosexualité était un péché. »
Calvin Klein, Diesel, l’agence Ford… Le monde de la mode ne parle que de lui. Mais la sculpture parfaite de son corps n’est pas son seul talent. Il est aussi chanteur et s’engage pour les droits LGBT.
Valentina Sampaio : Premier mannequin transgenre de Victoria’s Secret
A 22 ans, Valentina Sampaio fait voler en éclats les dictats traditionnels du monde de la mode. Des traits saillants, des yeux en amande, une silhouette longiligne… la jeune Brésilienne est d’une beauté sans conteste et commence à se faire un nom dans cet univers si fermé.
Née garçon en 1996 dans un petit village au nord du Brésil, Valentina se rend vite compte qu’elle n’est pas née dans le bon corps. Dès l’âge de 10 ans, elle dévoile sa part de féminité et à 12 ans elle décide de se faire appeler Valentina : «Je me suis toujours sentie femme, il n’y a pas eu de décision à prendre, tout s’est passé très naturellement. »
Au travers de ses collaborations avec les gros noms de la mode, elle participe activement à la lutte contre la transophobie.
Oslo Grace : Porte-étendard de la non-binarité, un visage deux en un.
« Enfant, on attendait de moi que je sois quelqu’un de féminin… et je détestais tout ce qui était girly. La mode en faisait partie. “Habille-toi en robe, mets du rouge à lèvres, et laisse-toi photographier pour que le monde entier te voie.” Ça résonnait comme une torture pour moi ! Mais la vie en a décidé ainsi… Au lycée, j’ai eu un sévère accident de rugby, dont ma mémoire à court terme a d’ailleurs gardé quelques séquelles. Il m’a fallu trouver un hobby autre que le sport. J’habitais près de New York, j’avais du temps libre, je me suis donc essayé au mannequinat. Cela pris une tournure inattendue. »
Effectivement, très inattendu, puisqu’aujourd’hui Oslo est un mannequin très demandé par les maisons prestigieuses comme Gucci, Moschino ou encore Kenzo, qui font appel à lui pour défiler sur les collections hommes… et femmes.
La mode n’utilise pas ces différences comme pure produit marketing. C’est un secteur qui garde à l’esprit qu’il est important d’exprimer sa féminité et sa masculinité, et n’incite en aucun cas de ne porter que des collections unisexes.
Ces égéries nous proposent un message de tolérance et de diversité, et revisitent les clichés de la mode.
Non, être beau n’est pas « faire partie de la norme ».
Être beau, c’est surtout, être soi.
Merci d’avoir pris le temps de lire cet article.
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