Benetton maître des scandales publicitaires, mais qu’est-ce que cela signifie ?
Le marketing de scandale est une pratique à part entière de ce domaine. En effet, c’est lorsqu’une entreprise provoque volontairement un scandale autour de son image, ou encore de ses activités. Ces actions peuvent passer par les publicités, mais également par la prise de position dans différents événements, par exemple politique. L’objectif de cette pratique ? Et bien tout simplement c’est d’attirer les médias afin qu’ils parlent de la marque et que celle-ci gagne en notoriété, même si aux premiers abords il s’agira d’une mauvaise notoriété. Plusieurs marques utilisent fortement cette pratique, notamment le groupe Benetton.
ZOOM SUR BENETTON
La marque propose des visuels qui appellent à la réaction et au scandale afin de toucher un maximum de monde. En effet, le but de sa communication est de faire parler d’elle afin d’être mémorisée au maximum.
Benetton est une marque italienne qui a été fondée en 1965 par la famille Benetton elle-même. Elle est aujourd’hui dirigée par Luciano Benetton et Massimo Renon.
Au fil des années, elle a réussi à s’étendre au niveau national, et même international grâce à son image forte.
Aujourd’hui, on ne peut pas parler de ce groupe sans mentionner Oliviero Toscani. Ce dernier est un photographe italien, se qualifiant de « visionnaire ». Il a intégré l’entreprise en 1983 afin de s’occuper des campagnes publicitaires sur affiche.
L’association de Oliviero Toscani (photographe) et Luciano Benetton (directeur Benetton) va faire naître de nombreuses campagnes publicitaires, quasiment toutes sujettes au scandale. L’objectif du directeur de la marque est de « faire fraterniser tous les peuples ». Sa collaboration avec le photographe a donc pour objectif de transmettre, à travers la publicité, leur point de vue sur le monde à un large panel de consommateur.
LE COMMENCEMENT : LES ANNEES 1980
Au départ, en 1984, lors de la première campagne, le principe des publicités de la marque était le suivant : un fond blanc, de la joie, des jeunes, des vêtements colorés, et un slogan « Benetton has all the colors in the world » qui est traduit en toutes les langues (en français : Benetton a toutes les couleurs du monde). L’objectif étant simplement de mettre en avant les vêtements, tout en respectant la charte graphique de la marque.
Plusieurs significations sont liées à ce slogan. Tout d’abord, cela met en avant le fait que Benetton possède une grande gamme de choix au niveau des couleurs pour ses vêtements.
Ensuite, cela représente également tous les hommes, toutes les femmes, et tous les enfants, quelle que soit leur ethnie.
C’est ensuite que les scandales ont commencé. Nous allons donc en voir certains, dans un ordre chronologique.
En 1985, Oliviero Toscani veut mettre en avant la multiracialité. On peut donc voir des drapeaux, les mannequins ont tous une ethnie différente. Cette publicité permettra à la marque d’être connue à l’international, mais sera également accompagnée de plusieurs polémiques puisqu’elle rappelle les problèmes de l’époque, notamment celui de l’Apartheid en Afrique du Sud.
C’est également à cet instant que le logo devient « United Colors Of Benetton ». Le groupe fait ce choix afin que la marque devienne universelle. De plus, ce nouveau slogan rejoint la vision de ses dirigeants, qui est de réunir toutes les ethnies du monde au sein de la marque.
Jusqu’ici, la marque Benetton était connue pour ses actions scandales « contrôlées ». Malgré les différents scandales qui ont surgi, en 1989, les campagnes publicitaires de Benetton sont présentes dans 45 pays, avec un total de 250 publications dans le monde, ainsi que 70 000 panneaux d’affichage.
Par la suite, la marque décide de faire disparaître petit à petit les vêtements de ses campagnes afin de ne laisser place qu’à quelques rappels de couleurs et à sa vision du monde.
Pourquoi direz-vous ? Parce qu’on voit de plus en plus de publicités de différentes marques sur le produit vestimentaire. Les campagnes se ressemblent donc toutes et aucune ne réussit à sortir du lot. Elles ne permettent plus d’apporter de la valeur ajoutée aux entreprises qu’elles représentent.
En faisant le choix d’être une marque vestimentaire, de tout miser sur la vision de l’entreprise sur le monde et de provoquer les scandales, cela permet à Benetton d’être plus visible. Et comment ? C’est simple, les campagnes publicitaires de la marque peuvent alors autant se retrouver sur des catalogues de mode, que sur des magazines d’actualités, que dans des émissions télévisées, ce qui permet donc d’avoir une publicité totalement gratuite et de toucher beaucoup plus de personnes.
Le résultat de ce choix ? En 1990, 88% des personnes interrogées connaissent Benetton, et 77% savent de quoi il s’agit. Ce sont des chiffres très remarquables pour une marque qui ne montre pas ses produits vendus lors de ses campagnes publicitaires.
LA SUITE DES SCANDALES : LES ANNEES 1990
Dans les années 90, les publicités vont encore aller plus loin. Elles vont désormais s’appuyer sur le réalisme.
Par exemple, une campagne qui montre trois différentes parties du corps avec la mention « HIV positive » tatouée à l’encre violette voit le jour. Ces parties du corps représentent les différents endroits par lesquels la maladie du SIDA peut être contractée. N’oublions pas qu’à cette époque (et encore aujourd’hui) la société comptait énormément de personnes sérophobes (il s’agit de la peur et du rejet, souvent irrationnel, des personnes séropositives). Les personnes étant positives se retrouvent privées d’activité dans la société (impossibilité de faire un prêt à la banque, etc….).
Le but de cette campagne est de montrer au grand public par quels endroits la maladie peut être contractée, mais également à mettre en lumière le rejet de la société des personnes séropositives.
Malheureusement, cette campagne a rapidement rejoint la famille des scandales Benetton. La raison ? Les tatouages rappellent fortement les pratiques nazis, et également celles dans les abattoirs sur les animaux. La marque se voit alors obligée de verser une indemnité (selon l’article 1382 du Code civil) aux malades du SIDA. Cette campagne a donc entraîné une baisse considérable du chiffre d’affaires de la marque dans les mois qui suivent (environ -20%). Toscani ira encore plus loin dans les années suivantes en montrant une victime du SIDA sur son lit de mort.
Durant ce début de décennie (1990) la marque Benetton publiera différentes campagnes toutes aussi scandaleuses les unes que les autres. Il sera possible de trouver une campagne montrant une mosaïque avec différents sexes d’hommes et de femmes, une autre montrant un prêtre en train d’embrasser une nonne, ou encore une représentant les vêtements ensanglantés d’un soldat de guerre. L’objectif de la marque est de dénoncer la discrimination, le rejet de certaines personnes de la société, et également la guerre. Ces différentes campagnes ont fait surgir énormément de polémiques, puisqu’en proposant ces visuels, Benetton associe ses vêtements à un événement négatif. Cependant, à ce moment-là, la censure n’est pas autorisée en France, le Bureau des Vérifications des Publicités demande alors à ce que ces différentes publicités ne soient pas affichés.
LE COUP DE TROP DE TOSCANI
C’est en 2000 que Toscani dépasse alors la mesure du raisonnable et propose la campagne « We on death row » (en français : « Regarder la mort en face »). Cette campagne représente plusieurs prisonniers américains qui sont condamnés à mort. On retrouve le visage des condamnés, ainsi que leur nom et la mention « Condamné à mort ». Pour effectuer cette campagne, Toscani a visité pendant quelques années plusieurs prisons afin de rencontrer des personnes condamnées à mort, et les prendre en photo. En proposant ces visuels, Toscani souhaite dénoncer la peine de mort qui est toujours présente aux Etats-Unis. Cependant, le photographe et la marque n’avaient prévenu personne que ces photographies seraient à des fins publicitaires. Cette campagne a fait le tour du monde, a soulevé un véritable scandale et a poussé Benetton à voir plusieurs de ses contrats commerciaux annulés. La marque est menacée de boycott et est également suivie en justice par l’Etat du Missouri.
Benetton décide alors de rompre sa relation avec Toscani.
NOUVAU DIRECTEUR ARTISTIQUE, MAIS ON GARDE LA SCANDALE COMME MARQUE DE FABRIQUE
Les prochaines campagnes seront réalisées par une équipe de la Fabrica, « centre de recherche pour la communication », créée par le groupe en 1994.
Suite aux répercussions de la polémique précédente, Benetton décide de se calmer sur les différents scandales en revenant à des campagnes publicitaires estimées plus acceptables.
En 2011, la marque fait de nouveau parler d’elle avec ces nouveaux visuels : plusieurs photomontages de différentes personnalités publiques et religieuses en train de s’embrasser, représentant un « baiser de paix ». D’ailleurs, rien n’est laissé au hasard puisque « les couples » s’embrassant ne sont d’autres que des opposants politiques. Barack Obama et Hu Jintao, Nicholas Sarkozy et Angela Merkel, le Pape Benoit XVI et un Imam, et bien d’autres encore…
Cette campagne « Unhate » (en français : « Ne vous haïssez plus ») a pour objectif de transmettre un message de tolérance et de paix. Cependant, les réactions sont rapidement arrivées. En effet, le Vatican a rapidement protesté obligeant la marque à retirer son visuel, et plusieurs gouvernements ont réagi en parlant d’actions en justice. En connaissant maintenant les pratiques de la marque, à votre avis, n’était-ce pas ça le but ? D’attirer un scandale ?
PLUS RECEMMENT…
Faisons maintenant un petit saut dans le temps, plus récemment cette fois-ci, en 2018, la célèbre marque a utilisé des images de migrants sauvés de la noyade, proches des côtes de l’Italie et de la Lybie, par un navire humanitaire. Pour des fins publicitaires, la marque les a publiées sur son compte officiel Twitter @benetton en y apposant son logo « UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ». Le groupe Benetton joue sur la moralité et les scandales en proposant cette nouvelle campagne, qui met en avant des personnes ayant frôlé la mort.
La personne à l’origine de cette campagne, qui n’est d’autre que Olivier Toscani (et oui, le retour, et il est mouvementé !), souhaite faire passer un message politique mettre en avant la triste réalité du monde actuel.
Une vague de protestations a alors éclaté sur Twitter, et l’appel au boycott est lancé. Le Ministre de l’Intérieur italien a réagi, en qualifiant cette campagne de « minable ».
SOS Méditerranée, qui est l’association européenne de recherche et de sauvetage en haute mer, a rapidement décliné toute participation à l’utilisation de ses photographies pour des fins publicitaires.
Benetton est donc l’une des marques les plus provocatrices que notre temps connaît. En partageant son opinion, à travers des campagnes publicitaires appelant au scandale, la marque met en avant les dessous de la société, pousse à la réaction, fait parler d’elle, et fait sa publicité (souvent gratuite grâce aux réactions des médias).
Cependant, la notoriété représente-elle une raison suffisante de passer dans l’immoralité ?
Je vous laisse me donner votre avis 🙂
Si le scandale vous intéresse, n’hésitez pas à aller lire d’autres articles similaires sur GNITEKRAM !
Un article intéressant pour découvrir l’univers de Benetton, ce qui choque pousse à la réaction et parfois il faut passer par là pour que le message soit compris !
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I still remember the death row campaign — bold, but it crossed a line for many.
Using real-world issues to gain media attention is smart, but also deeply risky. Not everyone sees it as awareness.
Toscani’s photography is undeniably powerful, but was Benetton ready for the backlash it triggered?
This kind of shock marketing is unforgettable, but I wonder if it created long-term brand loyalty or just temporary buzz.
The HIV-positive tattoos ad was one of the most haunting things I’ve ever seen in a fashion campaign.
Benetton’s campaigns walk a very thin line between social commentary and exploitation.
It’s ironic that the brand became a symbol of “inclusivity” through such exclusive, controversial tactics.
The “United Colors” concept was beautiful at the beginning — too bad it morphed into something so polarizing.
You have to respect the consistency of their strategy: they never played it safe, no matter the consequences.
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Article très intéressant sur l’approche controversée de Benetton en publicité. Cela montre à quel point les marques utilisent parfois le « too much » pour marquer les esprits. Sur notre plateforme Barbar77, nous explorons aussi les limites entre marketing et éthique. Merci pour cette réflexion !
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