Entre les expositions dédiées aux créateurs de mode, les collaborations et les campagnes de communications inspirée des plus grand chef d’oeuvre artistiques, l’idylle art-mode n’a jamais été aussi créative ! Lorsque l’art rencontre la mode, naissent alors des créations flirtant entre les frontières de ces deux mondes.
UN PEU D’HISTOIRE
Poiret et Dufy furent parmi les premiers à oser la collaboration artiste-créateur. Mais c’est la flamboyante Schiaparelli qui, en collaborant avec Dali ou Leonor Fini, mit la mode à l’heure surréaliste.
Dans les années 1960, Yves Saint Laurent sacralise cette union. Avec les robes Mondrian et les vestes brodées en hommage à Van Gogh, Braque ou Picasso, le couturier inscrit à jamais l’association entre deux mondes.
L’art a pourtant toujours conservé le bénéfice d’une supériorité naturelle !
Mais alors quels sont les plus grands points communs entre l’art et la mode ?
Damien Delille, historien de l’art et de la mode, et enseignant à l’Université Lumière Lyon 2 répond à cette interrogation. Pour lui, ils partagent des interêts commun pour l’esthétisme, un rapport complexe avec le luxe et l’apparat, une passion pour les représentations ornées ou idéalisées du corps humain, et surtout, une réflexion commune sur le monde matériel. Avec les contradictions et les effets d’aliénation qu’il comporte.
Selon lui, Baudelaire a été un des premiers au XIXe siècle à souligner le rapport de la modernité avec l’art et la mode, liés à la beauté de l’éphémère, de l’air du temps et de la transformation du banal. Cependant, les arts décoratifs et appliqués ont souvent souhaité moraliser la mode et dénoncer notamment sa rhétorique. Il y aurait une vacuité de l’image artificielle de la mode, une vanité de l’ostentation, une mise en scène des désirs à la fois consommables et jetables !
Néanmoins, l’univers de la mode a vite compris que l’art pouvait être un enjeu intéressant, un véhicule de communication et une aide à la valorisation du vêtement. Pour ses accessoires, la maison Louis Vuitton a ainsi multiplié les collaborations avec des artistes, tels Stephen Sprouse (en hommage), Richard Prince ou Yayoi Kusama. Jusqu’à sa dernière association plus controversée avec Jeff Koons, où il a pioché dans les classiques chefs d’oeuvre tel quel: De Vinci, Fragonard, Van Gogh.
Mais aussi avec des marques plus mainstream, comme la collaboration de Vans et du musée Van Gogh d’Amsterdam, la fusion entre le grand art et la mode quotidienne fonctionne. Dans cette capsule hommage, on retrouve les iconiques tableaux de Van Gogh tel que « Skull », « Almond Blossoms », « Sunflowers », « Self-Portrait as a Painter » et « Old Vineyard With Peasant Woman ».
PASSERELLES ENTRE DEUX MONDES
Gucci et Jacquemus ont fait appel à des peintres pour illustrer leurs campagnes de communication. Cela participe directement au renouveau de l’illustration de la mode, en particulier via les réseaux sociaux et spécialement Instagram. Les consommateurs d’image sont toujours à la recherche d’authenticité, rien de mieux que celle d’artistes peintres ou graphistes au style bien identifié !
Gucci a choisi de se laisser inspirer par les maîtres de la Renaissance italienne via les peintures d’Alex Merry.
Jacquemus s’inscrit dans cette même veine ostentatoire de la « French Riviera », avec un côté pop américain très années 1980, par l’artiste peintre Chloé Wise.
DES DESTINS INTIMEMENT LIÉS
L’Art-keting, autrement dit l’utilisation de l’art à des fins marketing, n’est pas un phénomène récent. Les plus grandes marques se sont souvent nourries de l’art au point de développer leur propre identité. L’art a toujours été utilisé par les marques à la fois comme source d’inspiration et comme moyen de promotion. On retrouve l’Art-keting sous plusieurs formes:
- Il peut participer au positionnement de l’offre :
- Il peut aussi être une composante de la marque : RVCA et ses collaborations, collections ou capsules régulières avec des artistes tels que Kevin Spanky, Ed Tempelton Johanna Olk…
- Il peut jouer un rôle dans l’expérience de marque: des vitrines aux produits de Yayoi Kusama pour Louis Vuitton comme vu précédemment.
- Il peut se connecter directement à l’acte d’achat, notamment par sa présence au sein des canaux de distribution: Agnès b. et sa galerie d’art que l’on retrouve à la fab à Paris nommé la galerie du jour.
- Enfin, il peut avoir un rôle plus institutionnel, avec la création de fondations de marque telle la fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain.
A l’heure où les collaborations entre les artistes et les maisons de mode se multiplient, où les musées consacrés à la mode fleurissent et où les collections rivalisent d’excentricité, le monde de l’art et celui de la mode se lient inexorablement. La mode peut-elle alors être considérée comme un art à part entière, au même titre que la peinture ou la sculpture ?
LA MODE EST-ELLE LE DIXIÈME ART ?
Découvrez les dernières tendances « pause culture« .
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