Des algues et des champignons directement dans nos vêtements et accessoires, ce sont les nouvelles alternatives proposées ces dernières semaines par DS Automobile, Stella McCartney et Hermès et qui vont faire leur apparition ces prochains mois.
En effet, le bien-être animal et le respect de l’environnement s’affirment aujourd’hui de plus en plus comme des tendances de fond dans la mode.
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DS Automobile
C’est au cours de la Fashion Week de Paris qui présentait l’édition Mode Féminine Automne-Hiver 2021-2022 en Mars 2021 que la marque automobile a présenté sa première collection de vêtements écoresponsables. Leur spécificité ? des vêtements absorbent le CO2 !
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DS Automobile est l’une des premières marques ayant pour objectif d’être 100% électrique d’ici 2025. Aujourd’hui, la marque présente SQ Conscious Collection dans le cadre de son programme Future Craft.
Future Craft a pour objectif de projeter la marque dans le futur en alliant le savoir-faire artisanal et l’innovation des matériaux, des procédés novateurs afin d’améliorer son impact environnemental.
Pour cette collection vestimentaire, la marque automobile s’est associée à EGONlab et au studio de design Post Carbon. EGONlab c’est un label émergeant de la mode française fondé par Florentin Glemarec et Kévin Nompeix. Post Carbon est un studio de recherches et d’innovations anglais spécialisé dans le développement durable et le green living fondé par les chercheurs Dian-Jen et Hannes Hulstaert.
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Avec ses slogans inspirés par Paris, la collection est composée d’un bomber, un trench et deux tee-shirts. Conçus à l’aide d’un revêtement photosynthétique aux algues composées d’ingrédients naturels, notamment de nutriments dérivés de plantes et de levure, de minéraux et d’eau. Le CO2 présent dans l’air est ainsi absorbé et transformé en oxygène et glucose. « Le processus vise à reproduire ce que la nature fait déjà, mais sur les textiles », explique le studio Post Carbon Lab à Dezeen.
Durant tout le processus créatif qui a duré 10 semaines, les 4 vêtements ont absorbés 1,45kg de CO2, une valeur comparable à ce qu’un chêne de six ans absorbe en six mois.
La seule contrainte de ces vêtements : fini les lavages en machine. Comme ils sont composés de micro-organisme ils doivent être uniquement entretenus à la main avec un détergent à pH neutre. Et comme les plantes, les vêtements doivent prendre le soleil et être brumisées régulièrement, la quantité de carbone capturée dépendant de la santé des algues présentes dans les vêtements.
Après les algues c’est des champignons que l’on va retrouver dans certains vêtements. Depuis ces dernières années quelques marques ont commencé les prendre en compte, principalement dans la création et la production d’accessoires.
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Stella McCartney
C’est dans le cadre de son partenariat avec la start-up californienne de biotechnologie Bolt Threads depuis 2017 que Stella McCartney a présenté ses premiers vêtements conçus à base de Mylo, une alternative au cuir. Le mylo, est fabriqué à partir de mycélium, la partie végétale du fungus qui est, contrairement à d’autres alternatives dites écologique, renouvelable à l’infini.
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Après avoir conçu déjà en 2020 un sac à main Falabella à partir de ce mycélium, elle présente cette fois-ci un ensemble composé d’une brassière et d’un pantalon cargot. Les deux pièces sont composées de panneaux à partir de cette matière, assemblés à la main et montés sur du néoprène confectionné en nylon recyclé. Les créations s’inscrivent dans la lignée du projet « V is for Vegan », inscrit au Manifeste de McCartney A à Z.
« Je pense fermement que la communauté Stella ne devrait jamais avoir à choisir entre l’élégance et la responsabilité environnementale. C’est aujourd’hui possible avec le Mylo », argumente Stella McCartney.
Pour présenter ces créations, c’est Paris Jackson qui a été choisie car elle incarne « la prochaine génération d’éco-activistes » selon Stella McCartney.
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La mauvaise nouvelle ? Pour le moment, les vêtements ne sont pas destinés à être commercialisés. L’objectif de cette annonce était principalement de montrer ce que la marque sera capable de faire et de proposer dans ses prochaines collections.
D’autres marques commencent également à se tourner vers ce type de matériaux alternatifs. La célèbre marque de maroquinerie Hermès a annoncé un premier modèle également composé en grande partie de fibres de champignons.
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Hermès
Hermès s’est associée à la stratup MycoWorks fondée par Phil Ross et Sophia Wang en 2013 pour créer son nouveau sac. La solution de cette startup : le champignon (là encore, le mycélium de champignons).
C’est après 3 ans de travail que la marque a dévoilé début Mars le nouveau sac fourre-tout Victoria qui intégrera le Sylviana, un matériau obtenu à base de champignons reishi, développé grâce à la technologie Fine Mycellium. “Fine Mycelium, la genèse de Sylvania, est produit dans l’usine MycoWorks”, explique la startup dans son communiqué de presse et poursuit : “Il est ensuite tanné et fini en France par les tanneurs Hermès pour affiner encore sa résistance et sa durabilité, et façonné dans les ateliers par les artisans Hermès.” Le sac sera disponible à la fin de l’année 2021.
Cette nouvelle version du Victora ne sera toutefois pas 100% vegan car elle intégrera quelques détails en toile et en cuir de veau evercalf.
À l’image des algues et des champignons dans les vêtements ici, ces dernières années la mode, et surtout le luxe commence à réfléchir à de nouvelles alternatives végétales et écologiques pour leurs vêtements et leurs accessoires.
Et vous, seriez-vous prêt à porter des matériaux naturels et pour certains encore vivants (comme les algues) directement sur vous ?
Justine C.
Plus d’articles sur la mode et la beauté par ici.
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