1,2 milliard, c’est le chiffre qui représente les tonnes de gaz à effet de serre produite par le secteur de la mode. C’est plus que le transport aérien et maritime réunit. L’industrie de la mode serait responsable du développement du réchauffement climatique avec une production de 150 milliards de vêtements par an. Vêtements qui pour la plupart, terminerons au fond du placard ou au mieux, seront portés que quelques fois avant d’être jetés. Pourtant, en 2022, nombreuses sont les marques qui s’offrent une image écoresponsable.
MAIS LE GREENWASHING C’EST QUOI EN RÉALITÉ ?
Promouvoir des valeurs écologiques sans pour autant mettre en place des actions en faveur du climat, c’est la spécialité de certaines marques. Cette méthode qui vise à accroître l’image de marque et la notoriété des marques textiles, on l’appelle le greenwashing. C’est un écoblanchiment autrement dit une solution marketing employée par une marque dans la finalité de s’offrir une image verte trompeuse. Nombreuses sont les entreprises qui communiquent sur de faux arguments écologiques, née ainsi une publicité mensongère.
L’objectif reste le même pour tous les secteurs d’activité : véhiculer une fausse image écologique des entreprises. Action qui permet ensuite de valoriser l’image de marque de l’entreprise sans pour autant mettre en place des actions en faveur de la cause climatique. De multiples secteurs tels que celui du cosmétique, de l’agro-alimentaire, de l’automobile et de la mode, tous, sont accusés de véhiculer des images trompeuses sur leur valeur écologique de marque.
Le secteur de la mode est le secteur qui menace le plus la cause écologique avec cette pratique. En réalisant une fausse image de marque quant aux valeurs écologiques, un danger s’installe pour les consommateurs. Faire croire que les entreprises sont engagées pour la cause revient à rassurer les consommateurs sur l’état actuel de la planète. Les entreprises véhicules un message selon laquelle elles affirment qu’elles ont la main sur l’avenir de notre planète et qu’elles maîtrisent la situation. Évidemment, la réalité est beaucoup plus sombre que ce qu’elle ne paraît. Certains vont même jusqu’à dire que « les marques nous endorment pendant que la maison brûle ». S’en vient alors une grande question : quel est le vrai problème de cette fausse démarche écoresponsable dans le secteur de la mode ?
98 millions. C’est la quantité de tonnes de matières non renouvelables par an dans le secteur du textile.
93 milliards. C’est la quantité de mètre cube d’eau par an nécessaire pour la production de coton et de teintures des vêtements.
20%. C’est le pourcentage d’eau polluée dans le monde à cause de secteur textile.
Avec une production 150 milliards de vêtements par an, ce secteur contribue fortement à l’épuisement des ressources de la planète. Sachant que le recyclage des vêtements est évalué à 1%, partager aux consommateurs une belle image sur leurs valeurs écologiques semble alors un choix démesurer quant à la gravité de la situation.
Avec une fausse publicité sur les valeurs écologiques, nombreuses sont les marques qui font réellement du marketing vert qui se retrouvent associées à ce phénomène de greenwashing. Mais alors, comment pouvons-nous reconnaître les marques surfant sur le buzz du greenwashing ?
RECONNAÎTRE LES MARQUES TROMPEUSES
Il existe plusieurs techniques permettant de repérer les marques qui communiquent de fausses informations sur leurs actions environnementales. L’un des éléments fondamentaux à prendre en compte est que le consommateur doit dissocier la couleur verte par rapport aux actions en faveur du climat. Beaucoup d’entreprises aujourd’hui font apparaître la couleur verte sur leur packaging ou sur leur communication ce qui laisse entendre une démarche de développement durable et de protection de l’environnement ou encore la croyance que les produits sont des produits naturels. Pour autant, c’est juste une stratégie permettant d’amadouer le consommateur quant aux valeurs de la marque.
Le deuxième élément à prendre en compte est l’utilisation de faux labels. Certains labels sortent de nulle part, personne ne les connaît mais l’entreprise « légitime » son image de marque et ses pratiques. Elle le fait également en indiquant par exemple un coton 100% naturel, fait qui n’ait pas forcément vérifié par des organisations.
Le troisième et dernier élément qui permet d’identifier les fausses communications de marketing vert est l’utilisation d’un champ lexical de la nature, de l’innocence et de l’amour. Lorsqu’une marque annonce un produit « fait avec amour » ou encore en l’indiquant comme « naturellement vôtre », la marque laisse entendre un certain engagement vis-à-vis de ses produits sans pour autant avoir d’engagement réel.
Globalement, on remarque que les consommateurs doivent faire attention à la communication mensongère des marques que ce soit dans le secteur de la mode ou tout autre secteur d’activité.
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