Après la fast fashion, l’ultra fast-fashion !
Boohoo et l’ultra fast fashion
La particularité de l’ultra fast fashion ? C’est une mode encore plus rapide et moins chère que la fast fashion. La plupart du temps, les marques de l’ultra fast fashion se développent en ligne et n’ont pas de boutiques physiques. Ces marques proposent des pièces tendances à des prix compétitifs, de quoi séduire de nombreuses personnes et notamment la génération Z.
Le groupe boohoo a notamment beaucoup d’influence dans cette nouvelle industrie. En effet, ce groupe détient une grande partie des marques de l’ultra fast fashion comme Pretty Little Thing, Boohoo, Nasty Gal et plus récemment Miss Pap.
Boohoo a été créé en 2006 par Mahmud Kamani et son épouse Carole Kane. Face à l’engouement et au développement de la marque, le groupe s’est agrandi et les autres marques sont nées par la suite.
Les marques du groupe Boohoo sont beaucoup mises en avant sur les réseaux sociaux et notamment sur Instagram où de nombreux influenceurs en font la promotion. C’est grâce à cette stratégie gagnante que le groupe arrive à conquérir toujours plus de consommateurs. Au-delà de la communication, ce qui attire plus particulièrement les consommateurs sont les prix très attractifs que proposent les marques du groupe Boohoo. Des robes à 8 euros, des hauts à 4 euros ou encore des pulls à 11 euros, ces prix étonnamment bas peuvent amener à se poser des questions sur les processus de production.
Cependant, à la surprise générale, tous les vêtements du groupe Boohoo sont produits en Angleterre et plus précisément dans la ville de Leicester.
Leicester, la ville de l’ultra fast fashion
Leicester, une ville située au cœur de l’Angleterre, serait le siège de l’ultra fast fashion. De nombreuses entreprises ont délocalisé leurs usines pour les implanter à Leicester afin de réduire les coûts. Des sous-traitants sont également présents dans cette ville pour répondre aux nombreuses commandes de grandes marques. Dans ces usines, les pièces sont confectionnées à des prix très bas mais comment Leicester arrive à proposer des prix si attractifs ?
Leicester abrite environ 1500 ateliers textiles. Cette petite ville d’Angleterre a pour avantage d’être proche des marques, contrairement aux usines chinoises par exemple.
« 75 à 80 % de la production textile de Leicester » fournit Boohoo, PrettyLittleThing et Nasty Gal. Rien que ça !
Les conditions de travail des usines de leicester
Le prix de fabrication des pièces destinées au groupe Boohoo s’explique par une exploitation des salariés dans les usines. Près de 10000 personnes sont exploitées pour fournir le géant de la mode.
À la fin de l’année 2020, une étude du “Labour Behind the label” révèle les mauvaises conditions de travail que subissent les travailleurs au sein de ces ateliers.
Un salaire dérisoire
Les travailleurs et les couturiers de ces usines sont payés 3 pounds et demi de l’heure, soit deux fois moins que le salaire minimum légal en Angleterre. Cette pratique est illégale et contraire à la réglementation. Ce salaire illégal permet ainsi aux marques du groupe Boohoo de réduire les coûts et de proposer des vêtements à des prix défiant toute concurrence. Les travailleurs n’ont également aucun contrat de travail.
Des conditions de travail plus que préoccupantes
Après le salaire dérisoire, des conditions de travail très préoccupantes. Les usines ne sont pas chauffées l’hiver et les pièces sont extrêmement sombres. Mais, ce n’est pas tout ! Les ouvriers travaillent bien plus que la loi le permet. En effet, ils travaillent 10, 12 voire 14 heures par jour. Cependant, s’il n’y a pas de commandes certains jours, ils sont renvoyés chez eux, sans être indemnisés pour la journée de travail perdue.
Les congés maladie ne sont pas rémunérés et ils sont même obligés de venir lorsqu’ils sont malades. Ils n’ont également pas de congés payés.
Le covid
Les usines ont également été accusées d’avoir propagé le covid. En effet, celles-ci étaient ouvertes pendant la pandémie et les confinements. Aucune mesure de protection n’a été mise en place dans les ateliers. Les salariés étaient obligés de venir travailler même s’ils avaient les symptômes du covid sinon on leur annonçait qu’ils perdraient leur emploi.
Des personnes pas déclarées
Si toutes ces conditions de travail ont été acceptées par les ouvriers, c’est parce qu’ils ne viennent pas d’Angleterre. Plus de 34% des travailleurs sont nés au Pakistan, Bangladesh, Inde ou encore Europe de l’Est et n’ont, par conséquent, pas le statut de résident documenté. La peur d’être expulsés les amènent à accepter ces mauvaises conditions de travail.
Des changements depuis 2021 ?
Boohoo et son centre d’excellence
Face à ce scandale, de nombreuses plateformes comme Asos ou Next ont enlevé les marques du groupe Boohoo. Le groupe a dû réagir ! Après avoir mené des enquêtes sur les usines de fabrication, le groupe Boohoo a décidé d’aller beaucoup plus loin et d’ouvrir une usine de fabrication à Leicester qu’il qualifie de « centre d’excellence ».
Cette usine de fabrication comportera des bureaux, qui serviront à former les salariés de boohoo aux achats responsables et aux aspects techniques de la production de vêtements. Cet atelier pourra potentiellement accueillir des étudiants et les groupes qui veulent en savoir plus sur la fabrication de textile.
De plus, tous les salariés vont bénéficier des avantages qu’offre le groupe Boohoo (soins médicaux, actions etc..).
Des usines à Leicester toujours esclavagistes
Néanmoins, malgré l’ouverture de ce centre qualifié “d’excellence” par le groupe Boohoo, certaines usines à Leicester continuent à mener ces pratiques esclavagistes. En effet, de nombreux salariés perçoivent toujours des revenus nettement inférieurs au salaire minimum britannique et ne disposent d’aucun congé payé. Les conditions de travail ont peu voire pas du tout évoluées. Pas de pause et des journées à rallonge sont le quotidien des salariés de ces usines esclavagistes.
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