Quelle est la différence entre les produits naturels et biologiques et sont-ils légitimes ?
Le marché des produits cosmétiques est aujourd’hui en pleine expansion et estimé à 40 milliards de dollars. C’est la demande croissante des consommateurs qui a incités de grandes entreprises telles que Garnier à proposer ces nouvelles gammes. Il s’agit également d’un marché sujet aux controverses et dont la légitimité est remises en cause. Les consommateurs ne sont pas rares à confondre « produits naturels » et « produits biologiques ».
Quelle est la réelle différence entre naturel et biologique ?
Cosmétique conventionnel
Dans un premier temps, il convient de redéfinir les cosmétiques conventionnels. Il s’agit d’un cosmétique formulé à partir d’ingrédients de synthèse issus de l’industrie de la pétrochimie.
Produits biologiques
Ces cosmétiques sont composés avec un minimum de 20 % d’ingrédients issus de l’agriculture biologique (loi du 01/2017). Le concept d’agriculture biologique a été introduit en 1920 et envahi de plus en plus notre quotidien. Suite aux diverses crises sanitaires avec notamment les parabènes suspectés d’être cancérigènes, ce marché s’est mis en place en remettant en cause les pratiques de l’industrie cosmétique conventionnelle.
Que signifie réellement produit naturel ?
La qualification « naturelle » est le sujet de nombreuses controverses au sein de l’industrie cosmétique. En effet, il n’existe pas de réglementation définissant cette catégorie de cosmétiques. Ils sont composés d’ingrédients naturels ou d’origine naturelle qui doivent souvent être préalablement transformés.
Pourquoi se mettre aux cosmétiques bio ?
La santé
Les produits cosmétiques conventionnels utilisent fréquemment des substances susceptibles de provoquer de nombreux effets secondaires pour notre santé. Les cosmétiques issues de l’agriculture biologiques sont plus respectueuses de la santé en tentant d’éviter les produits tels que les parabènes.
Avoir une belle peau
Les cosmétiques conventionnelles contiennent souvent des ingrédients pétrochimiques. Ceux-ci ont pour effet secondaire de boucher les pores de peau et donc d’engendrer de l’acné.
Peaux sensibles
Les produits chimiques sont allergisants et agressifs pour la peau et donc non-respectueuse de celle-ci. Saviez-vous que 99 % des shampoings et gels douche du marché contiennent du sodium Laureth sulfate ? Il s’agit du tensioactif utilisé dans l’industrie chimique permettant d’obtenir la « mousse » lorsqu’on se lave. Hors, ce produit ne lave pas, il décape ! En effet, il s’agit simplement d’un détergent.
Environnement
En utilisant des produits biologiques, il s’agit d’un pas en faveur de notre planète. En effet, cela permet d’éviter de déverser dans les égouts des produits difficilement biodégradables ou polluants. De plus, les flacons de ces produits ne sont pas toujours recyclables et contiennent toujours des restes de produits lorsqu’ils sont jetés à la poubelle. Les produits biologiques tels que les savons solides contiennent moins d’emballages et sont donc plus en accord avec les valeurs environnementales.
Il y a quelques années, les consommateurs de ces produits étaient exclusivement des écolos purs et durs. Aujourd’hui, l’achat de ce type de produit s’est démocratisé et est devenu tendance.
Les freins à leur utilisation
Une date de péremption plus courte
Tout comme les aliments, ils comportent d’une période d’utilisation après ouverture (PAO) qui est symbolisée par un logo figurant sur l’emballage. Il s’agit de chiffre suivi de la lettre M. Par exemple, « 3 M » signifie que le produit conserve ses propriétés pour une durée de trois moins après ouverture. Pour éviter le développement des germes, certains requièrent même d’être stocké au réfrigérateur.
Des gammes de parfums moins abondantes
En limitant les produits de l’industrie chimiques, les possibilités de fragrances sont également limitées. Néanmoins, l’émergence de ce marché permet le développement de nouveaux procédés permettant de les obtenir. Certaines fragrance, telles que la réglisse, ont déjà été très bien réussies et il y a donc de l’espoir pour l’avenir.
Des prix plus élevés
Il existe un écart de 20 à 30 % pour accéder à cette catégorie de cosmétiques. Cela est expliqué par les coûts élevés de ses ingrédients. Avec l’expansion de ce marché, cette différence est vouée à disparaître permettant une plus grande accessibilité.
Pour conclure..
En somme, les cosmétiques biologiques émergents démontrent de nombreux avantages pour notre bien-être ainsi que pour l’environnement. Les produits dits « naturel » représentent un premier pas vers ceux qui sont biologiques dans un processus de sensibilisation. La première étape vers les produits cosmétiques naturels et biologiques est de faire comprendre aux consommateurs non convertis les enjeux.
Grâce à la croissance du marché, il sera possible d’observer une diminution des freins au passage au biologique.
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