Aujourd’hui, de nombreuses marques développent des produits Cruelty Free, terme anglais qui signifie « sans cruauté ». Mais quelles garanties apporte cette appellation ? Est-elle vraiment fiable ? Et est-ce vraiment la fin des tests sur les animaux ?
Depuis quelques années, vous aurez surement vu passer des vidéos et images de laboratoires où les animaux subissent des tests atroces et inhumains (produits testés sur la peau rasée des rongeurs, injection dans les yeux des lapins…). C’est ce que PETA et L214, des associations de protection animales, diffusent en masse sur les réseaux sociaux et dans les rues. Dernièrement, c’est un laboratoire en Allemagne qui a fait face à de telles accusations.
Pourtant, depuis 2013, les cosmétiques testés sur les animaux sont interdits en Europe. Voir ce genre de comportement persister est donc devenu un réel questionnement sociétal. C’est pourquoi les marques et les consommateurs ont décidé d’agir grâce à l’appellation Cruelty Free et des labels, permettant de distinguer les marques qui agissent réellement contre cette pratique illégale.
Mais que signifie l’appellation Cruelty Free ?
Cette appellation garantit un produit 100% sans cruauté, c’est-à-dire que :
- Aucun produit fini ou ingrédient qui compose le produit n’a été testé sur les animaux.
- Les fournisseurs ne pratiquent pas l’expérimentation animale.
- La marque peut être contrôlée par un organisme indépendant à tout moment.
Pour aller plus loin, il existe également l’appellation Vegan qui assure que les produits sont exempts de toute substance d’origine animale (cire d’abeille par exemple).
Comment repérer les produits Cruelty Free ?
Lors de vos achats, un moyen simple et efficace pour repérer les produits Cruelty Free est la présence de label.
Les labels les plus stricts :
Cruelty Free de PETA
Leaping Bunny
Les autres labels :
Choose Cruelty Free
Cruelty Free Cosmetics (IHTK)
One Voice (les logos ronds et colorés seront progressivement remplacés par ceux avec le tigre)
Les limites du Cruelty Free
Malheureusement, malgré une réelle prise de conscience, certains comportements non-éthiques persistent…
Les grands groupes
Certaines marques vendent des produits non testés sur les animaux mais appartiennent à des groupes qui testent leurs produits… Par exemple, Dove, labellisé par PETA comme Cruelty Free, appartient au groupe Unilever qui fait des tests sur les animaux.
L’exemple de la Chine
Si le marché Européen est très clair, certaines marques se heurtent à la loi de pays comme la Chine qui oblige de faire tester les produits sur les animaux avant toute entrée sur le territoire. Ainsi, des marques de cosmétiques qui ne font pas de tests sur les animaux en Europe peuvent se voir obliger de faire des tests si elles souhaitent conquérir certains marchés et donc devenir complices de ce fléau…
Le plan Reach
Le plan Reach (un autre règlement de l’Union européenne adopté pour sécuriser la fabrication et l’utilisation des substances chimiques dans son industrie) oblige toute marque Européenne à faire des tests sur certains ingrédients cosmétiques, même lorsqu’il n’y a pas d’alternative aux tests sur les animaux. Contradictoire n’est-ce pas ?
En conclusion
Heureusement, aujourd’hui, de nombreuses alternatives ont été données et validées par l’OCDE (l’Organisation pour la coopération et le développement économiques).
Parmi elles, on retrouve le microdosage (des êtres humains reçoivent de faibles quantités d’une substance pour identifier ses effets sur le corps au niveau cellulaire), les tests in vitro ou encore la peau artificielle. Le Groupe L’Oréal par exemple, mène depuis plusieurs années des recherches sur la création de peau artificielle pour tester ses produits.
Peut-être la fin des tests sur les animaux est proche ? Beaucoup l’espère. En tout cas, l’appellation Cruelty Free a fait son effet et prouve bel et bien un engagement de la part des entreprises. Cependant, il faut parfois aller plus loin que les labels en se renseignant sur la marque et groupe auquel elle appartient !
Merci pour votre lecture 🙂
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