Face aux changements des comportements des consommateurs, les marques de cosmétiques se mettent au vert. Cependant, certaines marques abusent de la confiance du consommateur et joue sur les mots pour lui faire croire qu’il a affaire à des produits cosmétiques écologiques et bon pour la peau.Mais alors, comment repérer les marques qui utilisent la technique du greenwashing ?
Le secteur de la cosmétique, très touché par le greenwashing
Face à des consommateurs toujours plus soucieux de respecter l’environnement et leur santé, certaines marques ont recours à la pratique du greenwashing. En effet, le greenwashing est une technique très utilisée par les marques désirant redorer leur image. L’objectif est de se donner une image “verte” en prétendant se soucier de l’environnement et de la santé du consommateur. Ces entreprises travaillent ainsi beaucoup sur le marketing pour rendre plus vert mais moins sur la composition de leurs produits.
Pour toucher plus de clients, certaines marques utilisent les arguments du marketing écologique ou naturel pour vendre un produit, qui ne l’est pas du tout! Bien au contraire, très souvent, la composition des produits n’est pas bonne pour la santé voire néfaste pour votre peau et pour l’environnement. Les emballages, quant à eux, ne sont, parfois, même pas recyclés. Les consommateurs soucieux de la planète et de leur peau, sont donc des bonnes cibles pour ces marques.
Cependant, lorsqu’on s’approche un peu plus près de la liste des composants, on a très souvent des surprises. Beaucoup d’ingrédients de ces produits sont très souvent dérivés du pétrole, des ingrédients, bien entendu néfastes pour la santé et très polluants.
Comment reconnaître les marques de greenwashing ?
Les labels
Les marques de greenwashing ont souvent recours à de faux labels, qui induisent le consommateur en erreur. En effet, certaines marques n’hésitent pas à créer leurs propres labels et imitent des labels reconnus. Ces faux labels ne suivent aucun cahier des charges.
Les labels donnent une garantie de la qualité du produit et de la naturalité de celui-ci. Il est donc très important d’apprendre les principaux labels de cosmétiques biologiques.
La communication
Les marques de greenwashing jouent beaucoup sur les mots pour communiquer sur leurs produits. Les messages écrits sur les produits peuvent ainsi mal interpréter et tromper le consommateur. Les produits vont généralement être qualifiés de “naturel”, “durable” ou encore “responsable”. Ces mots sont tout simplement ouverts à l’interprétation.
Une autre technique utilisée est de mettre en avant un actif naturel pour donner l’impression que le produit entier l’est. De plus, l’actif est pour la plupart du temps représenté de façon très minime dans la composition du produit.
L’emballage
Les marques adorent jouer sur l’emballage pour le rendre plus “vert”. Elles font le choix d’un produit épuré, vert et avec des images de végétaux. Un packaging bien trompeur !
Sur l’emballage, on retrouve beaucoup de mentions faisant référence à l’absence de produit nocif comme “0% silicone”, “0% de parabens” ou encore “0% de colorants”. Certes, ces composants ne sont pas présents dans le produit mais ils sont remplacés par d’autres ingrédients toujours néfastes pour la santé.
Par exemple, le parabens est remplacé par les libérateurs de formaldehyde (un produit cancérigène par inhalation) et le phenoxyethanol (un produit toxique).
La couleur verte est également un autre élément utilisé par les marques de greenwashing. En effet, cette couleur renvoie un côté écologique, sain et bon pour la santé mais elle n’est en aucun cas un gage d’écologie.
Les images, présentes sur l’emballage, ne sont également pas choisies au hasard. Les entreprises choisissent des images liées aux végétaux pour refléter le côté “naturel” du produit.
Les mentions obligatoires
Certaines entreprises mettent, comme argument de vente, des mentions obligatoires. La mention “non testé sur les animaux” en est un bon exemple. Cette mention amène le consommateur à croire que la marque est engagée en faveur des animaux. Or, ce n’est pas le cas car ce n’est pas un choix mais une obligation depuis 2013 de n’avoir plus recours à des tests sur les animaux.
Deux exemples de greenwashing
Le cas d’Yves rocher
Yves rocher, cette marque est très souvent accusée de greenwashing, mais alors pourquoi ?
Yves rocher est une marque de cosmétique française, qui se positionne comme la marque pionnière et experte en cosmétique végétale.
Avec un tel positionnement, on peut penser que c’est une marque naturelle, verte et bonne pour la santé ainsi que la peau.
Yves rocher se donne une image verte et de cosmétique “naturelle” avec plusieurs éléments de communication :
- Les magasins avec des façades vertes, une décoration végétale et des vendeuses habillés en vert
- Le site internet avec la prédominance de la couleur verte, des photos de nature et beaucoup de mentions telles « 100% d’actifs végétaux », « La passion du végétal » ou encore « Créateur de la cosmétique végétale »
- Les emballages verts, leurs photos d’arbres et autres végétaux
Or, la composition des produits ne révèle pas la même chose que la communication et le marketing réalisé par Yves rocher.
Quand on analyse la composition du produit, certes on voit la présence d’ingrédients d’origine naturelle. Mais, la liste des ingrédients présents à coté est tout sauf bon pour la santé. En effet, il existe de nombreux ingrédients néfastes pour la santé comme du silicone, du plastique ou encore des PolyEthylene Glycol. En plus de cela, certains ingrédients sont tout simplement interdits dans la cosmétique naturelle et biologique comme le silicone.
De plus, ils mettent également en avant des caractéristiques des produits obligatoires comme “ingrédients synthétiques sûrs ». Cette mention peut donner davantage confiance au consommateur alors que tous les produits de cosmétiques sont des ingrédients synthétiques sûrs.
Cette marque a alors été attaquée sur le greenwashing car la composition du produit ne reflète pas son positionnement.
Un autre cas : Timotei
Prenons un autre cas, celui de Timotei, la marque de shampoing. Timotei utilise toutes les techniques du greenwashing : Un packaging épuré, “naturel” et de nombreuses mentions telles que “0% silicones, 0% parabens, 0% colorants”. On pourrait alors penser que la composition du produit est bonne. Or, quand on regarde de plus près la composition, il y a 7 ingrédients nocifs pour la santé.
Timotei et Yves rocher sont loin d’être les seules marques accusées de greenwashing, Lush, l’Occitane ou encore The body shop sont également attaquées pour du greenwashing.
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