Qui ne connaît pas Benetton ? la marque de vêtement aux campagnes chocs ou engagées. Dans cet article nous ferons un petit tour d’horizon des campagnes Benetton grâce à des dates clés qui marquent l’évolution de la marque depuis les années 1960.
On ne peut parler des campagnes publicitaires Benetton sans évoquer le photographe Olivier Toscani qui a eu une forte influence sur leurs contenus. De 1984 à 2000, ses créations définissent et portent la marque qui se veut sensibilisatrice et engagée.
Les campagnes Benetton, là où tout a commencé :
Benetton naît en 1965, entreprise fondée par la famille italienne du même nom. Elle a pour PDG Luciano Benetton et est spécialisée dans la vente de vêtements, de chaussures et d’accessoires. Elle a défrayé la chronique, faisant couler encre et salive sur une période de presque 10 ans, notamment à cause de ses campagnes publicitaires osées et on en parle encore aujourd’hui (même si l’intérêt qu’elle suscitait a relativement baissé). Sa stratégie de communication basée sur l’implication sociale ont permis à la marque de se hisser de façon fulgurante au-devant de la scène.
Retour sur les campagnes de communication chocs, réussies et désastreuses, de cette entreprise audacieuse et avant-gardiste.
Les Campagnes Benetton
Au tout début de son existence, ce n’est qu’une marque de vêtements et d’accessoires parmi tant d’autres. Avec les mêmes codes standardisés pour la présentation des produits, les campagnes bien réglées sur celles en vogue dans les années 70.
Benetton a commencé réellement une stratégie de communication authentique avec l’entrée en jeu du talentueux photographe Olivier Toscani en 1984, qui repense l’esprit de la marque et adopte la ‘‘publicité par la provocation’’.
Naissance de la United Colors of Benetton
Toutes les couleurs du monde. Couleur comme teinte de tissus, nuance et palette. De là aux couleurs de peau des différents peuples qui composent la population mondiale, il n’y a qu’un pas. Et Benetton (Olivier Toscani) l’a franchi. On crée des affiches, photos d’un groupe de jeunes avec de différentes couleurs de peau. Car Benetton se veut une marque universelle. Les affiches ont toutes un fond blanc et présentent un groupe de jeunes d’origines diverses, mais sans aucune incitation explicite à l’achat des produits de la marque. L’interprétation est laissée librement au public.
© Benetton
Cette campagne a un succès énorme, de par son approche unique à l’époque et axée sur la diversité culturelle, la cohabitation fraternelle de ces différentes cultures. C’est plus tard, après les premières affiches applaudies par le grand public, en 1985 que ces photographies seront signées United Colors of Benetton, ce qui deviendra également le nom d’une des marques de la maison. C’est également au cours de cette année que l’entreprise reçoit le « Grand Prix de la Publicité Presse Magazine » et le « Grand Prix de la Communication Publicitaire ».
Evolution de la United Colors of Benetton
A partir de 1990, Benetton mise sur la publicité choc. S’il est vrai que travailler avec des mannequins de tous horizons pour symboliser la diversité était déjà assez novateur à l’époque, Benetton ne veut pas s’arrêter en si bon chemin. Ces affiches deviennent de plus en plus centrées sur l’effet de contraste (jeune-vieux mais surtout Noir-Blanc, Américain-Russe, Chrétien-Musulman) et les messages moralisateurs sur des sujets de plus en plus sensibles, politiques. Cette stratégie a permis à la marque de lancer à chaque fois la bombe et de laisser les médias booster la publicité. Et en effet, ça a marché. Une affiche de Benetton faisait l’objet de décryptage dans plusieurs médias augmentant la notoriété et la publicité qui était faite à la marque même si tous n’étaient pas des critiques favorables. Il serait hasardeux d’affirmer que la démarche de la marque était purement opportuniste et guidée par la recherche de profits, cependant la position de « conscientisation » a beaucoup élevé et conforté l’image de la marque sur le plan international.
Au cours de cette période (1990-2000), Benetton passe de la période de la mise en avant de la beauté de la différence au combat systématique des inégalités (source de maux).
Des campagnes Benetton de plus en plus choquantes et extrémistes :
Des critiques négatives fusent autour de ces campagnes qui vont devenir plus extrémistes, moins axées sur le produit mais plus orientées vers la dénonciation et l’affichage de clichés plus sombres ou gênants les uns que les autres. En voulant « choquer » toujours plus, Benetton en aurait-il trop fait ?
De l’acclamation du génie aux invectives de la foule, il n’y a qu’un pas, et Benetton malheureusement semble l’avoir franchi. L’entreprise présente des affiches qui ont pour thème entre autres la faim dans le monde, l’anorexie, le VIH, le sang, la mort, des tableaux toujours plus choquants (1991-1992).
De nombreux défenseurs de la marque sont opposés à cette politique de négationnisme et de provocation. Il n’y a pas beaucoup qui adhèrent à la nouvelle direction que prennent les campagnes et à l’image que renvoie la marque. Certaines des images ont été appelées à être censurées dans certains pays (un prêtre embrassant une religieuse, des images particulièrement accablantes et se référant au sang, à la mort). Le produit a disparu progressivement des affiches et les messages deviennent à la limite, accusateurs, tristes, sombres. Dans beaucoup d’esprits, la marque a viré de bord.
Des campagnes Benetton plus engagées
En 1993, elle « répare » ses bévues en misant sur la transparence et la vérité. Elle se lance dans des actions concrètes également.
Entre 1994 et 1997, en continuité à l’idéologie de la provocation qui a toujours été la base de la stratégie de communication et de celle de la vérité, la marque veut soutenir les personnes séropositives en dénonçant leur stigmatisation.
© Benetton
En 2000, le photographe Olivier Toscani enfonce le clou avec la parution des photos de détenus condamnées à mort qu’il a prises dans des prisons aux Etats-Unis sur une durée de deux ans. Les photos portent la mention « Condamné à mort » et l’étiquette verte de United colors of Benetton. Un scandale éclate car les autorités pénitentiaires ainsi que les familles des détenus n’avaient pas donné l’autorisation de les publier. Cela marque la fin de la collaboration de la marque avec Olivier Toscani. L’agence de communication Fabrica reprend le flambeau.
© Benetton
Les nouvelles campagnes Benetton. (Après l’an 2000)
Sous l’égide de la tolérance, de la sensibilisation à une société plus juste, tournée vers l’entraide et le vivre ensemble, la nouvelle campagne de Benetton est plus modérée.. Il est à reconnaître que cette modération du contenu des affiches publicitaires a fait remonter la pente à la société mais elle ne reprendra plus son prestige d’antan.
Hors des sentiers battus
Le cas Benetton est particulièrement intéressant car l’entreprise a fait l’impasse sur nombre de règles admises dans le monde de la publicité en mettant en avant la défense de valeurs sociales et la dénonciation des maux de l’actualité plutôt que le produit, et en faisant intervenir dans ses campagnes des réalités et évènements négatifs (le produit doit être associé à des éléments positifs).
De 2000 à 2020, la marque semble s’être « assagie ». Cependant, il est à noter que la politique de la pub choc n’a jamais totalement cessé. Et quelques-unes des campagnes présentées sont sujettes à de fortes controverses (campagne Unhate en 2008 mettant en scène après manipulation par photomontage, des autorités politiques ou religieuses s’embrassant sur la bouche. Un appel à l’union de deux camps ou idéologies opposés à chaque fois, selon Benetton).
© Benetton
Le retour du photographe Olivier Toscani au sein de la structure fin 2017, a confirmé cette volonté de rester dans l’esprit de la communication provocatrice. Dernièrement, les campagnes se sont plus centrées sur la célébration de la diversité culturelle, la gaieté.
© Benetton
Même si les opinions sont partagées, Benetton a su se démarquer et n’a pas fini de marquer les esprits.
Pour plus d’articles sur les top et les flop du marketing de ces dernières années, rendez-vous ici
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