Depuis quelques années, certaines stars du cinéma, de la musique ou de la télé profitent de leur notoriété pour lancer leur propre marque de maquillage. Cette tendance a été encouragée par l’apparition des blogueuses et youtubeuses beauté qui ont permis aux femmes, et aux hommes, de mieux maîtriser leur usage du maquillage.
L’une des premières à se lancer dans cette industrie fût la top-model somalienne des années 90, Iman Mohamed, face au peu de diversité des teintes dans l’industrie cosmétique. Cette prise de position lui a valu un succès fulgurant dans le monde et plus précisément au sein des communautés noires, qui étaient peu ou pas représentées dans l’industrie.
Cela a aussi été le combat de Rihanna, plus de 20 ans après, avec Fenty Beauty. Une volonté de proposer une gamme complète de fonds de teint, adaptée à toutes les couleurs de peau. Plus de deux décennies plus tard, la préoccupation environnementale prend aussi de la place dans l’esprit des consommateurs, c’est pour cela quelle a pensé sa marque totalement cruelty-free.
Pourquoi faire ?
L’une des raisons principales de la création d’une marque par des célébrités est de différencier leur source de revenus : avoir d’autres revenus que leur métier principal, une manière « d’assurer leurs arrières » en quelque sorte.
Mais quelle idée ?
Leur popularité sur les réseaux sociaux en est une des causes. Certaines stars se sont demandées : « Pourquoi je devrais continuer à collaborer avec des marques existantes alors que des milliers d’abonnés seraient prêts à acheter la mienne ? » Avec l’expansion du commerce en ligne, il est désormais possible de vendre directement aux fans, sans passer par des intermédiaires, ce qui rend le business plus qu’intéressant.
Quand je parle de stars je ne peux pas passer à côté d’un nouveau type de « stars » qui émergent grâce aux réseaux sociaux : les influenceur.euse.s et youtubeur.euse.s (un peu d’écriture inclusive n’a jamais fait de mal). On peut citer (liste non exhaustive) :
-
- James Charles, maquilleur et youtubeur beauté américain, qui a lancé une palette de 39 fards à paupières très pigmentés en collaboration avec la marque Morphe.
- Gaëlle Garcia Diaz et sa marque Martine Cosmetics, cruelty free, qui propose une gamme de maquillage complète aux noms audacieux comme le personnage de sa créatrice (palette « douce tchoin », pinceau « touffe soyeuse », eyeliner « yeux de bitch »).
-
- Jeffree Star, connu grâce à My Space puis grâce à You Tube et sa marque Jeffree Star Cosmetics dans laquelle il a investi toutes ses économies en 2014. Plus récemment il a collaboré avec un autre youtubeur et humoriste américain, Shane et ses 23 millions d’abonnés (Jeffree en a 17 millions). Ils ont sorti ensemble une collection complète de produits de maquillage (palette, rouges à lèvres, gloss, accessoires, etc…).
- Sanaa El Mahalli, dite Sananas, blogueuse et youtubeuse française spécialisée dans la mode et la beauté a sorti plusieurs gammes de maquillage en collaboration des marques prestigieuses (Sephora, Becca et OPI par exemple).
- Richaard, l’un des premier youtubeur beauté français a lancé une palette d’highlighters en collaboration avec Sephora.
Les polémiques
En plus d’avoir des profils différents, leur implication dans leur marque l’est aussi. Au degré d’implication le plus faible, la star est payée par la marque pour en faire la promotion sur les réseaux sociaux ou dans les publicités.
Au degré le plus important, la star crée sa marque de A à Z en engageant une équipe de direction, organisant des conseils d’administrations, cherchant des financements etc. Dans ce cas, son but est de créer une ligne de produit en accord avec sa personnalité, quelle imagine elle-même ou quelle réfléchit en faisant appel à des professionnels connaisseurs du marché.
C’est le cas de Jessica Alba et Lady Gaga qui ont lancé deux marques de produits de beauté, Honest Company pour la première et Haus Labs pour l’autre, créées entièrement de leur propre initiative. Les risques pris sont plus élevés dans ce cas là, et c’est ce qu’a confronté Jessica Alba : rappels de produits, perte d’une grosse vente à Unilever et accusations de greenwashing.
C’est aussi le cas de la jeune Millie Bobby Brown alias Eleven dans Stranger Things. Elle a lancé en août 2019 Florence by Mills, une marque de produits de beauté spécialement adaptée à la peau des plus jeunes, qui lui a valu une petite polémique récemment sur Instagram. Elle s’est prise en vidéo entrain de tester sa gamme de nettoyage de peau mais les internautes ont constaté que son maquillage était intact après l’utilisation des produits et le lui ont fait remarquer en commentant : « Si vous n’êtes même pas prête à le mettre sur votre visage pour faire une vente, pourquoi quelqu’un d’autre devrait-il l’utiliser pour de vrai ? ». La jeune d’actrice s’est donc excusée dans un autre post en jouant sur son manque d’expérience dans le domaine.
Certaines, pour générer du profit sans se soucier de leur image, possèdent une partie ou la totalité d’une marque beauté mais leur nom n’apparaît pas dans la communication. C’est le cas de Jennifer Aniston, qui possède des parts dans Living Proof ou Katie Holmes dans Alterna hair care, deux marques de soins pour les cheveux.
Et du coup ?
Précurseur ou suiveurs, les stars qui ont déjà lancé leur marque beauté ne sont pas les dernières et le makeup a encore de beaux jours devant lui.
Si toutes et tous rêvent d’en faire leur nouveau business, il n’y en a qu’une qui a réussi à le rendre plus que profitable et c’est Kylie Jenner. Avec sa marque Kylie Cosmetics, elle est devenue en 2019 l’une des plus jeunes milliardaires au monde à seulement 21 ans. Il y a quelques jours a été annoncé dans un communiqué de presse que Kylie cédait 51% de ses deux marques (Kylie Cosmetics et Kylie Skin, une gamme de soins pour la peau) à Coty, un groupe de cosmétiques américain pour 600 millions de dollars.
Joyeux Noël Kylie !
j’adore le makeup je trouve cet article super !
Bonjour,
Suite aux vidéos insta, je recherche le snap de Millie Bobby Brown pour les tutos in live.
C’est just un tuto
Thk U.
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