H&M Conscious : démarche engagée ou greenwashing ?

Jeune femme portant un sac H&M dans la rue

Covid19, tempêtes, feu de forêts, fonte des glaces en accélérée… et si l’année 2020 était l’année d’une prise de conscience collective ? H&M Conscious : démarche engagée ou greenwashing ?

Aujourd’hui plus que jamais, les consommateurs remettent en question leur façon de consommer pour faire un pas vers le « mieux consommer ». Les marques l’ont bien compris : nombreuses sont les enseignes qui proposent désormais une démarche de consommation alternative à leurs clients. Produits respectueux de l’environnement, biodégradables et locaux… nous pouvons le dire, les produits eco-friendly ont le vent en poupe et ne cessent de se multiplier.

Qu’en est-il de l’univers de la mode ? Aujourd’hui, le textile est un des domaines les plus polluants de la planète. Il se classe au 2eme rang des industries les plus polluantes, juste après celle du pétrole. H&M Conscious : démarche engagée ou greenwashing ?

  • Saviez-vous que pour produire un seul jeans, il faut environ 7500 litres d’eau ? C’est environ ce dont vous avez besoin de boire en tant qu’être humain… pour les 7 prochaines années.

Alors face à cette réalité, nombreuses sont les enseignes qui souhaitent redorer l’image qu’elles renvoient en créant des collections dites respectueuses de l’environnement. H&M Conscious : démarche engagée ou greenwashing ?

H&M, une volonté de démocratiser la mode éthique et écologique.

Prenons le cas de la très célèbre marque de prêt-à-porter : H&M. Depuis quelques années, la marque communique énormément autour de l’écologie et met en place de nombreuses actions dans ce sens.

« Aujourd’hui, il est temps de changer la mode » peut-on lire sur leur site internet. Mais peut-on vraiment se fier aux déclarations de la 2nde entreprise leader du marché du prêt-à-porter ?

Utilisation raisonnée de ressources, suppression des substances chimiques nocives ou encore recyclage des matériaux pour une mode cyclique et durable ; avec sa collection H&M Conscious, l’entreprise Hennes&Mauritz tend depuis plusieurs années à devenir davantage éco-reponsable et novatrice.

La question se pose alors : cette communication est-elle une pure technique marketing ou une réelle volonté de la marque de changer les codes pour une mode durable et green ?

Vous avez dit « Greenwashing ? »

Pour commencer, remettons les pendules à l’heure : qu’appelle-t-on « greenwashing ? »

D’après l’ADEME (Agence De l’Environnement et de la Maîtrise de l’Energie), cette technique marketing aussi appelée « éco-blanchiment » en français se caractérise par « l’utilisation de l’argument écologique alors que l’intérêt du produit ou du service pour l’environnement est minime voire inexistant. »

Manque d’informations, logos de couleur verte, photos et images montrant les produits dans la nature, textes engageants… les entreprises rivalisent d’ingéniosité pour tromper les consommateurs.

CO² + € = le monde d'aujourd'hui
L’industrie de la mode est aujourd’hui une des plus polluantes de la planète. Photo by Marija Zaric on Unsplash

H&M Conscious, une politique marketing rondement menée ?

Cela fait quelques années que le géant de la fast fashion parle d’environnement. Leur première collection en coton bio date des années 90. 20 ans plus tard, en 2010, l’entreprise met pour la première fois à l’honneur les matières recyclées grâce à sa « Garden Collection » qui fut un succès fulgurant. L’année d’après, la collection Conscious voit le jour.

Mais alors la vision H&M Conscious, démarche engagée ou greenwashing ?

La collection Conscious : c’est quoi ?

Concrètement, quelles sont les valeurs qu’H&M prône à travers ses engagements sur le développement durable ?

Via divers slogans et textes impactants, l’enseigne nous apprend qu’elle encourage la mode circulaire avec le recyclage des déchets mais également qu’elle est à l’origine de différentes initiatives (comme par exemple celle d’avoir un impact positif sur le climat d’ici 2040 en éliminant plus de gaz à effet de serre qu’elle n’en produira d’ici là).

Actuellement, la marque garantie des collections moins polluantes avec une utilisation de matériaux naturels et/ou recyclés comme du coton bio, du lin, du polyester venant de bouteilles plastiques ainsi que certaines matières innovantes telles que le Tancel.

Mais en réalité, peut-on vraiment croire ce qu’avance H&M ? Focus sur différents points qui nous permettent de douter.

Le manque d’informations

Un des points les plus alarmants sur le site internet est le flagrant manque d’informations. Pourtant, à la lecture de leur onglet « développement durable », vous pourriez croire qu’ils en donnent presque trop. Effectivement, 7 onglets complets vous permettent d’en savoir davantage sur leur façon de voir la mode d’aujourd’hui : green green et toujours plus green.

Cependant, si vous souhaitez approfondir le sujet et aller dans les détails, cela devient rapidement compliqué.

  • Prenons l’exemple d’un jeans conscious. La description nous indique que ce jean est conçu à 99% de coton et que ce coton est partiellement recyclé. Super ! Malheureusement, si vous souhaitez plus d’informations, rien n’est indiqué. Pas même le % de coton recyclé (ou bio / BCI) utilisé pour ce jeans. De plus, aucun label n’est mentionné. Pourtant, certains labels existent comme le GRS « Global Recycle Standard » et permettraient d’être davantage crédible.

Le manque d’information est donc un problème majeur dans la politique d’H&M. En effet, si vous vous baladez rapidement sur certains articles de la gamme, vous vous rendrez rapidement compte que certains articles sont présents dans la catégorie Conscious… sans qu’on ne sache pourquoi. Effectivement, rien n’explique si certaines matières sont éco-conçues ou recyclées par exemple. H&M Conscious : démarche engagée ou greenwashing ?

H&M et éthique, une dimension à prendre en compte

Il est vrai que la marque fait un pas en avant en nous proposant une traçabilité de ses vêtements et de ses fournisseurs. Un réel atout qui peut prouver la bonne foi de l’enseigne en termes de transparence et d’éthique.

Cependant nous pouvons très vite nous rendre compte qu’un vêtement conscious est produit grâce aux mêmes fournisseurs et dans les mêmes usines qu’un produit non conscious, dans des pays tels que le Bangladesh ou encore la Chine pour la majorité des items.

  • A la lecture du texte figurant dans les informations de chaque vêtement, l’enseigne Suédoise nous explique qu’elle œuvre pour la création d’emplois, pour l’autonomisation et la croissance économique des pays pauvres dans lesquels elle fait produire.

Si nous prenons du recul sur ces informations, nous comprenons que la délocalisation de ses usines – dans des pays en voie de développement – est une bonne chose. Il suffit de faire quelques recherches pour démontrer (évidemment) que ce n’est pas forcément le cas. Produire des emplois oui, mais à quel prix ? Dans quelles mesures ?

Rappelons-nous de la catastrophe de 2017 au Bangladesh, qui a fait des centaines de morts suite à l’effondrement d’une usine en piteux état, où de nombreuses marques connues de fast fashion avaient délocaliser leur production.  Malheureusement encore aujourd’hui de nombreuses enseignes (dont H&M) continuent de faire travailler leurs salariés dans des conditions inacceptables.

  • Il y a quelques semaines, nous apprenions d’ailleurs qu’H&M travaillait avec des entreprises Chinoises exploitant les Ouighours (une minorité musulmane enfermée dans des camps de concentrations chinois) depuis des années, alors qu’elle assurait ne travailler qu’avec des fournisseurs éthiques et irréprochables.

Fast fashion et écologie : les deux opposés qui s’affrontent

Enfin, une des 1ères mesures écologiques d’H&M était de proposer de ramener vos vêtements usés en magasin pour les recycler. « Close the loop » : jusqu’ici, tout va bien.

Cependant, quelque chose ne tourne pas rond : à chaque dépôt de vêtements usés, vous avez le droit à un bon de réduction de 5€ pour acheter… des vêtements neufs dans le magasin. La démarche nous laisse légèrement perplexe !

Peut-on vraiment se dire « engagé » dans une mode durable en produisant toujours plus de vêtements et en incitant à consommer tout autant qu’avant, sous prétexte qu’il soit possible de recycler nos vêtements ?

En conclusion : des questions restent sans réponse

Alors finalement, que penser du phénomène « Conscious » de H&M ?

L’onglet « développement durable » rempli de nombreux renseignements sur leurs valeurs et engagements, pourrait nous laisser penser que la marque essaie de noyer les consommateurs sous un trop plein d’information.

Notons tout de même que l’enseigne Suédoise fut parmi les 1ères à parler de transparence et de mode éthique quand certaines entreprises concurrentes ne l’avaient même pas envisagé. Cependant, le manque de transparence dans les données fournies aux consommateurs nous amène à croire qu’elle résulte simplement d’un greenwashing flagrant.

Enfin, peut-on vraiment être un acteur majeur de l’industrie de la fast-fashion et se positionner en défenseur du développement durable ?

Et vous, qu’en pensez-vous ?

 

Laura Baranger

Ce sujet vous a plu ? N’hésitez pas à lire nos différents articles green en cliquant ici.

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