Il n’y a pas si longtemps, la fashion week parisienne perturbait encore le quotidien des habitants de la Ville Lumière …
Les rues étaient bondées, parcourues par des foules de mannequins en liesse, des hordes de photographes, journalistes, influenceurs et autres célébrités en tout genre …
Septembre 2020, pandémie oblige, l’ambiance n’est plus la même. Les rues sont calmes, les podiums sont dépeuplés, le bruit des talons claquant sur les pavés a disparu.
Pourtant, cette année, la Fashion Week a bien eu lieu. Elle s’est simplement réinventée.
À l’heure où le COVID-19 règne sur notre quotidien, c’est toute l’industrie de la mode qui est perturbée. Défilés annulés, magasins fermés, soirées désertées … Les marques de mode se font déposséder d’une partie des dispositifs habituellement utilisés pour mettre en avant leurs collections, et se tournent largement vers le digital, qui prend la main sur le secteur.
Ainsi, le COVID-19 n’a-t-il finalement fait qu’accélérer cette transition vers une mode plus digitale ? Comment les marques ont-elles adapté leur communication pour faire face à ce contexte si particulier ?
Pour le printemps-été 2021, les fashion weeks, sous l’emprise de la pandémie, ont dû faire preuve d’une grande sensibilité artistique mais aussi d’une grande ingéniosité pour réinventer le modèle du défilé et, malgré tout, faire vivre ce temps fort.
Ainsi, nous avons vu naître des initiatives toutes plus originales et captivantes les unes que les autres. Entre technologie et storytelling, découvrez les marques qui se sont dépassées dans l’art de faire vivre leur défilé et de nous faire rêver.
Une fashion week interactive :
Pour attirer l’attention, certaines marques ont misé sur l’interaction, se tournant ainsi vers des plateformes jusqu’ici délaissées par l’industrie du luxe.
Ce fut le cas de Burberry, pour la fashion week de Londres. La marque anglaise s’est en effet tournée vers Twitch, une plateforme de streaming pour les gamers créée en 2011 qui dépasse aujourd’hui largement la sphère des jeux vidéos.
C’est Erikah Badu, chanteuse américaine proche du directeur artistique de Burberry, qui a pris les commandes du défilé, accompagnée des stars Bella Hadid, Rosalia et Steve Lacy.
Erikah Badu, maîtresse de cérémonie du défilé Burberry diffusé en direct sur Twitch,
avec les chanteurs Rosalia et Steve Lacy. Le Figaro
Retransmis en direct depuis la campagne anglaise, le show se déroulera sans accrocs, sous l’oeil de plus de 45 000 Twitchers, très actifs tout au long du défilé dans l’espace commentaires.
Faire le choix de présenter sa nouvelle collection sur des plateformes innovantes, Burberry n’a cependant pas été la seule à le faire.
Comme Olivier Rousteing pour Balmain en juillet dernier, Dior a jeté son dévolu sur le réseau social très en vogue actuellement, TikTok. La marque a ainsi plongé les internautes dans l’univers de la maison, en les plaçant au premier rang de ce défilé exceptionnel.
En faisant le choix de ces plateformes innovantes, les marques de luxe se rendent plus accessibles à leur audience. Elles facilitent en effet l’interaction, en créant des dialogues entre le consommateur et la marque via les commentaires notamment.
De plus, ces plateformes leur permettent d’atteindre une nouvelle audience, probablement moins habituée aux contenus relatifs à la haute couture. Une audience généralement plus jeune, composée de potentiels futurs clients. En s’adaptant au format de ces nouveaux réseaux sociaux, les marques s’adressent directement à cette cible, de façon adaptée, accessible et donc attractive.
Une autre technologique :
Les fashion week du printemps-été 2021 se sont aussi déroulées sous le signe de l’innovation technologique. En effet, de nombreuses marques ont fait appel aux effets spéciaux pour faire vivre plus intensément leur défilé, et redonner de la vie à des shows en grand manque de vitalité, pandémie oblige.
Hanifa s’est largement démarqué sur ce point. La marque congolaise a en effet dévoilé le 22 mai sa nouvelle collection en direct sur Instagram, en organisant le premier défilé de mode sans podium, ni mannequin.
Tout cela, grâce à la 3D. Cette technique a permis de faire vivre les créations de la marque tout en captant l’attention des internautes, qui ont été captivés par le réalisme et l’aspect novateur de l’événement.
Vuitton a aussi fait appel à la technologie. La marque a organisé son défilé à la Samaritaine, grand magasin historique de Paris, au décor parsemé de détails vintage. La marque y a ajouté une touche de modernité grâce à un fond vert, recouvrant les murs de magasin et sur lequel étaient diffusés , digitalement, des extraits du film Les Ailes du Désir.
Le résultat ? Une scénographie double : un décor spectaculaire pour les invités présents et un show magique pour les internautes, visualisant les mannequins défiler au coeur d’un film poétique.
Défilé Vuitton à la Samaritaine. Grégoire Vielle.
La marque Ester Manas a quant à elle poussé l’expérience encore plus loin. Le duo franco-belge a en effet filmé tous ses mannequins sur un fond vert afin de les intégrer par la suite dans un décor en 3D.
Le thème ? Les superhéroïnes. La collection se veut inspirée de toutes les femmes, quelle que soit leur taille, leur couleur de peau ou leurs formes. Ainsi, chaque vêtement, proposé en taille unique, est taillé de sorte à ce qu’il convienne à toutes les morphologies, du 34 au 50.
Une prouesse technique, qui, alliée aux décors 3D de la vidéo, apporte à la collection un aspect très futuriste.
En utilisant la technologie (3D, fond vert ou tout autre innovation), les marques font preuve d’ingéniosité et d’innovativité et se démarquent ainsi de leurs concurrents.
Ces technologies aident aussi les spectateurs à s’immerger dans une expérience complète, en stimulant leurs sens, en créant des shows magiques, des décors iréels et spectaculaires … Elles captent ainsi l’attention des spectateurs et, plus important encore, la retiennent.
Une fashion week historique :
Pour présenter sa nouvelle collection, Dior n’a pas, contrairement aux autres marques, misé sur l’aspect technologique mais, au contraire, historique.
La marque a en effet présenté un splendide court-métrage réalisé par Matteo Garrone, mettant en avant une histoire de la mode méconnue, datant de l’après-guerre.
Cette histoire c’est l’initiative de la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne qui, pour relancer le secteur de la mode détruit par la guerre, décide d’organiser, non pas un défilé (trop cher), mais une présentation … sur poupées.
C’est ce que Dior retrace à travers son court-métrage, baptisé « Le Mythe Dior ».
Après un premier focus sur les petites mains des ateliers, travaillant sur des versions miniatures des créations Dior (les fameuses poupées), la marque nous plonge dans un décor féérique, où se mêlent nymphes, naïades, sirènes …
Un retour dans le passé plein de poésie.
À travers cette création visuelle, Dior fait rêver le spectateur, reliant sa marque à des valeurs, des sentiments, des images, et suscitant ainsi l’intérêt, voir l’admiration.
Une autre aux premiers rangs … virtuels :
Habituellement remplis par des stars internationales aujourd’hui bloquées dans leur pays, les premiers rangs de défilés se sont retrouvés dépeuplés pour cette édition printemps-été 2021.
Certaines marques ont cependant trouvé une solution pour palier à ce problème, et parmi elles, Balmain.
Le show a débuté avec les mots de Pierre Balmain, fondateur de la maison, guidant ses mannequins historiques devant l’oeil avisé du directeur artistique de la marque, Olivier Rousteing.
Après cette introduction toute en poésie, le défilé a commencé, dévoilant un premier rang exclusivement numérique. Habitué à accueillir un parterre de stars en front row, Olivier Rousteing, a décidé de placer cinquante écrans présentant les personnalités absentes, filmées sur fond blanc et faisant mine de suivre les silhouettes sur le podium. On aperçoit donc Anna Wintour, Jennifer Lopez, Claudia Schiffer, Kris Jenner, Cindy Crawford, Usher, Cara Delevingne …
Une touche d’humour apporté par Rousteing qui a tout de même souhaité les faire participer, à sa manière.
En mettant en avant ces personnalités, le directeur artistique souhaite perpétuer cette pratique du front row qui nous paraît indissociable de la fashion week, malgré la distanciation sociale. C’est aussi ce qui fait le charme de ces semaines de la mode : on veut savoir qui est assis au premier rang, qui porte quoi …
Olivier Rousteing en est bien conscient et a donc choisi cette mise en scène car il sait que cette élite intrigue, attire la curiosité et continue à nous faire rêver.
Ainsi, la pandémie qui bouleverse aujourd’hui nos quotidiens a aussi pris de cours l’industrie de la mode. Outre les nombreuses remises en cause (rythme des fashion week, problèmes d’éthique, manque de diversité…) et les nouvelles tendances (lounge wear, retour en force des friperies..) qui ont (re-)vues le jour, la nécessité de se trouver vers le digital s’est montrée omniprésente.
Les marques ont cependant su s’adapter à cette évolution, intégrant le numérique au coeur de leur stratégie de communication. La technologie est venue en aide aux plus grandes maisons pour les aider à développer leurs interactions digitales et à repenser leur contenus pour maintenir le lien avec leurs communautés.
Ainsi, aujourd’hui et plus que jamais, nul ne viendra contredire que la présence en ligne est devenu LE critère de base pour prospérer, voire survivre.
Mathilde Rouxel
La plus recente tournee de fashion weeks – les defiles de mode feminine a New York, Londres, Milan et Paris – a ete eclipsee par l epidemie du COVID-19, qui s’est repandu en Italie alors que les defiles commencaient la-bas. Comme l’ont explique un certain nombre de reporters sur place, la precaution et la paranoia en ce qui concerne le virus etaient de rigueur alors que plusieurs redacteurs sont partis plus tot et que des defiles ont ete annules, puis le virus a commence a apparaitre aux Etats-Unis.
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